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December 11, 2020, 03:10:41 pm Lein says: It's been going good brother.  blessed to still be working and bought my first house Smiley
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September 13, 2020, 07:36:10 pm Zero96 says: MY CHILDREN HOW IS 2020 TREATING YOU IF YOU SHALL SEE THIS
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Compressed Air Engine (my tenth grade science project) by Techshooter
December 19, 2015, 05:24:10 pm

Re: Homemade Picture Thread! by Techshooter
December 19, 2015, 04:40:27 pm

Re: Nerf DoubleDown Mod Guide: Part 1 by Nerf Doctor
April 05, 2015, 11:52:21 pm

Re: Nerf DoubleDown Mod Guide: Part 1 by Zero96
April 03, 2015, 04:50:23 pm

Re: Nerf DoubleDown Mod Guide: Part 1 by Nerf Doctor
April 01, 2015, 06:48:52 am

Re: Nerf DoubleDown Mod Guide: Part 1 by Techshooter
March 31, 2015, 09:04:37 pm

Nerf DoubleDown Mod Guide: Part 1 by Nerf Doctor
March 31, 2015, 05:34:19 pm

Re: Concept Thread by Nerf Doctor
March 30, 2015, 01:19:42 pm

Re: Concept Thread by Nerf Doctor
March 29, 2015, 08:24:51 am

Re: Guide to Pictures That Won't Disappear by Nerf Doctor
March 28, 2015, 12:31:08 pm

Pages: 1 ... 3 4 [5] 6 7 ... 10
 41 
 on: January 06, 2015, 09:15:26 pm 
Started by yksnerf - Last post by Zero96
Very nice review. I've got one of these things stock somewhere I believe.

RoF: 4/10

This is the only drawback, as it's a single shot with a relatively small air volume, an RSCB will hurt your ranges by quite a lot with the deadspace and a hopper simply isn't going to be reliable in my experience. Combine that with needing to pump it 4 times in the uncomfortable manner, RoF is quite painful. However, it's a pistol, and if you're using a Supermaxx 750 as a primary you deserve to be frustrated by your RoF.


How is it with say 2 uncomfortable pumps instead of four uncomfortable. I know the range would be less but is it bad? I remember Mega modded a supersoaker and full powered was brutal, but it took like 30 pumps. However with 10 pumps still worked great.

 42 
 on: January 06, 2015, 09:08:38 pm 
Started by yksnerf - Last post by Zero96
Thanks for the write up bro.

I also resized the images for this because HoF doesn't auto-resize them. They're a bit squished, I forget the aspect ratio of my camera. deal w/ it

They look fine man.

 43 
 on: January 06, 2015, 03:18:31 pm 
Started by Zero96 - Last post by yksnerf


bampin your thread - $4.79

 44 
 on: January 06, 2015, 03:12:07 pm 
Started by yksnerf - Last post by yksnerf
Decided I'd review some of my older Nerf blasters for the hell of it. I recently got my hands on a beautiful SM750 (Not a scuff on it) - Here's my first impressions.

Debuting in 1996, the Supermaxx 750 is a single-shot, air powered pistol produced by Larami, originally retailing for ~$10USD between 1996 and 2003.

As was the custom of the Supermaxx line, it fired the selfsame-titled Supermaxx darts, a small variation on the Mega darts of the time.

It features a purple primary color, lime green secondary, as well as black & orange accenting.

Past the introduction, I'll move on to the basics of the blaster.  The entire first part is reviewing it in stock form.

Performance

Accuracy: N/A

The accuracy of this blaster in stock form is going to be the same as that of nearly any other suction-firing Nerf blaster, that is, you're not going to hit someone from far enough away to worry about accuracy, simply due to the range - See below.

Range: 4/10

The stock range of this blaster is about the same as every other Supermaxx blaster I've used, being between 15 and 25 feet depending on dart quality and how long you wait to fire after pumping the blaster.

RoF: 5/10

It's nothing special. You put a dart in, pump it 3* times, and fire. I was able to get approximately one shot every three or four seconds as the barrel is a very loose fit and darts can just be "slapped" right in. Not much can be expected from a single-barrel pistol with no ammo holders.

Overall, the performance gets a 5/10.

Aesthetics, comfort, and usability

Aesthetics:

I don't give this any rating, as it has no impact to the blaster. I like the Super Soaker themed design of all the Supermaxx line, and while the colors may not be the greatest by many's opinion, it's a fairly simple design that has a lot of accent areas and it lends itself VERY well to paintjobs - Plus, looking at the 1996 Nerf logo brings a warmth to my heart and I can't dislike the stock aesthetic.

Comfort: 3/10

Generally, if a grip doesn't allow you to wrap all four fingers around, I've never cared as I have little mobility or feeling of my pinky fingers in either hand (see picture), sp at first the grip didn't bother me. However, the grip is incredibly thin. If I wrap my hand around it, the trigger lands somewhere in my first or second knuckle and my index finger and thumb overlap. It's an uncomfortable gun to use extensively.

Usability: 5/10

While it's incredibly simple to use, the rear-facing pump handle is a bad design by nature. Pumping an air tank takes a relatively high amount of force compared to something like priming a Recon, and while I'm fairly muscular and able to pump the 750 with a fair amount of ease, it's an uncomfortable method and I can't find myself getting used to it after some playtime with the blaster. Other than that, it's simple and easy to operate.

Overall, in stock form, the average of my scores is 4/10, or 2/5 - In stock form, this is pretty much a worthless blaster to own, aside from the collector value - Which is originally what I intended on getting it for.

However, there's the moddability, and here are my thoughts in modded form.

Accuracy: 9/10

It's an air blaster, and if your barrel is straight and you're using good darts, it's deadly accurate and you should be able to consistently hit a human-sized target beyond 60 feet. Still a Nerf gun, not going to be perfect, so I'm giving it a 9.

Range: 10/10

I can't give this anything but a 10 due to the fact that you can EASILY achieve 90-100 feet flat in this tiny package. A PETG barrel replacement, OPRV plugging, spring gluing, and some air seal modifications will be all you need to do to get this thing running beautifully. You can also opt to replace or relocate the pump to something/somewhere better.

RoF: 5/10

This is the only drawback, as it's a single shot with a relatively small air volume, an RSCB will hurt your ranges by quite a lot with the deadspace and a hopper simply isn't going to be reliable in my experience. Combine that with needing to pump it 3* times in the uncomfortable manner, RoF is quite painful. However, it's a pistol, and if you're using a Supermaxx 750 as a primary you deserve to be frustrated by your RoF.

Overall, performance gets a 8/10 when modded, but if I were to consider it vs all other primaries of relative size, I'd give it a 9/10.  I think this is one of the best sidearms you can have around - comparing it to a TTG, Nitefinder, etc. it's going to outrange it every time, comparing to even a Supermaxx 1500 or Angel Breech LS. Obviously price depends on the person, but if I were to find one of these for under $10 now that I have one, I'd definitely pick it up - if I didn't have one, I'd get one for $15 or under, $15 to $20 is spending a bit too much for my personal tastes. I have a blast messing around with this little guy and think he'll have a place in my arsenal for a while to come.

PICTURES:













*Note about the edit

I had a leaky connection that required I pump it 4 times to get the OPRV to kick in - With everything sealed up, three pumps will pop the OPRV and you'll be ready to go.  Bumped up a point in each RoF category.

 45 
 on: January 06, 2015, 07:27:02 am 
Started by yksnerf - Last post by yksnerf
Reserve post 2 - Troubleshooting

 46 
 on: January 06, 2015, 07:26:26 am 
Started by yksnerf - Last post by yksnerf
Reserve post #1 - Airflow modifications

 47 
 on: January 06, 2015, 07:24:06 am 
Started by yksnerf - Last post by yksnerf
--As of posting here, this writeup is still a WIP because it's very lengthy as I put a lot of detail into it. There will be multiple edits to come if this message is still present--

My friend brought me three stock, old-style Supermaxx 1500s to work on. I fell in love with these blasters as soon as I messed around with them a bit, they're incredibly cool and one of my favorite blasters. He gave me one to keep, which I modified, and learned a couple things NOT to do which weren't present in a lot of writeups. Additionally, there's no single, detailed, writeup on overhauling a Supermaxx 1500 that describes and instructs how to do everything AND how NOT to do everything.

I'm here to impart the knowledge I gained by screwing over one of the Supermaxxes and then figuring out how to fix it. I'll be doing a writeup in the following style:

>Tutorial on a modification

>Problems that can arise from a modification

>Diagnoses for the problems

Let's jump in.


Step 1: Open your blaster.

The screws on the pump handle are irrelevant and do not need to be taken out.
The only issues you will face when disassembling your Supermaxx for the first time are two caps, shown here:



They will need to be cut or pried off, unless you want to dip them in boiling water or find some other way of dissolving the glue to remove them.

The other issue will be glue at the top of the orange reservoir. You may just use leverage and gently snap the pieces apart, however, that poses a risk of breaking or creating stress marks in the plastic around there, so I recommend the boiling water treatment beforehand or using some sort of blade to separate the pieces more gently.

Internals



These are fairly simple. Refer to these before reassembly of your blaster. Nothing here is small enough to have a large risk of misplacement other than the trigger spring which is not pictured. Familiarize yourself with the air tank, turret, and trigger locations before moving on with your modification.

Turret Modification

This is the most extensive, difficult, and tedious section of this blaster. It's such a large portion that you could do it, put the turret back in the blaster, and be getting 80 feet flat. Don't get lazy though; this is by no means a beginner modification and should be handled with great care.

Disassembly
Start by lifting the turret out of the blaster. It's not held in by anything.

- Moving to the back, rotate the barrels while keeping the back stationary until the holes line up with the screws.

Hold the turret upright while removing the screws so they will fall straight down, otherwise they are liable to get lodged in the rotation mechanism and can mar the plastic during a later step.

- Pull the black barrel spacer off.



- Remove all barrels from the turret, by gently wiggling them and pulling upward. In the case that they are inseparable from the turret, hold them in boiling water for 30 seconds while taking care not to burn yourself. Wait 2-3 minutes after taking them out of the boiling water before attempting to remove the barrels again, as the plastic will be both extremely hot, and as such, pliable - you do not want to deform your turret or barrels.

Your turret will look like this from the front after the barrels are removed.



You may set the turret aside for now.

- Grab your barrels. You will notice on the bottom, there is a "cap" of sorts, visible due to the seam in the plastic.





- Using a saw of some sort (I recommend a bandsaw or scrollsaw), nestle the blade in that seam and cut along it.



View from the back, post-cutting:



- Grab a 9/16" spade bit (Can be found for roughly $3.50 at your local hardware store) - The central "spike" will fit into the hole of the barrel, and with a little wiggle you can easily center it perfectly. I had the best results here with a spade bit, you may prefer a different style.



Clamping down a barrel in a vice or onto your table will make this job much easier to get done perfectly. The hole does not have to be clean on the inside, but it's important to get it as centered as possible (If it's off by too much, you can always fix it with different methods, but that adds an extra amount of work.

This is what my barrel looked like after I did a small amount of drilling with the spade bit. I switched to a standard 9/16" bit afterward and gently rotated my drill to ream out the inside slightly.



- Take a pair of scissors and keep reaming out the inside of the barrel. Your goal is to get PETG to fit inside of it very easily, loose enough that you can push it in with the pressure of your pinky finger, but will stay put if you let go of the PETG and just hold the barrel itself.  Do this with all four barrels, testing them all with PETG.

Once that's done, you can set your barrels aside and grab the turret again.

- Move to the back, find the pin with the spring on it, and pry it off as gently as possible with a small pry bar, or a claw hammer. This will take a lot of force, be careful not to bend any of the plastic. Separate all parts of the turret.


Bonus: If you see the faint line on my thumb, that's scarring from the vague knife accident I mentioned in the FU shoutbox.

- Grab the barrel section of your turret. Start by widening the holes with a bit slightly larger than the holes themselves, I believe the one I used was 3/8". Then move up to 1/2" and drill it out again. Drill from the front, it's the easiest.

Before:


After:



- Move to the back, and you'll find that these walls have been decimated by the drilling.



You're going to grab a pair of needle nose pliers and break those all off, then clean up with an X-Acto knife.



- Next, from the front again, drill it out with a 9/16" standard bit. Ream that until PETG will fit in firmly, but NOT warp. This is imperative. PETG, being a loose barrel, has space around your dart. If there is warping, that holds your dart in with more friction and will have larger spaces around it for air to escape.  Your dart will simply not leave the barrel on the first shot, but will shoot fine the second time, as shown here:

[Video will be inserted here prior to completion of the writeup]

This is an example of bad barrels - notice the very light oval shape on all of them. That's enough to ruin your firing.



- After you've ensured the barrels have no warping (Common cause for warping is the circular wall of the rotation mech, you may need to file/grind that down a bit), have them protruding slightly from the back of your turret.



- Set the turret down on a hard, flat surface, and press the stock barrels on.



- Add the black spacer.



- You're not going to be able to get it on there with your hands, so put a screwdriver through (Has to be a large one that can't be easily bent) and push down hard on the head and handle.



Kind of a pain, but damn is it satisfying when that thing goes on.


(Note for the next step - I use Vis-a-vis markers for all the marks I make and recommend you do too, do yourself a huge favor and pick these up)
- Once that is done, go to the top of the barrels, and make marks on your PETG with a washable marker where the ORANGE BARRELS end, then disassemble your turret again.

- Lightly wrap the PETG with masking tape BELOW the mark you made (If you wrap it tightly, you're going to warp your PETG and cause the same problem with pinching) until it has little wiggle room in the wider diameter section of orange barrel - This helps keep the PETG straight, and you'll want the wiggle room for when you put your barrel spacers on as the stock barrels are not perfectly straight, and you don't want to bend your PETG when you put the spacers on.  The tape is just to help them face the correct direction.

Currently DRAFT 1. There will be more steps added and pictures added where necessary tomorrow.

This is the end of the first draft. Last edit: 1/6/2015 07:23 CST -6GMT

 48 
 on: January 05, 2015, 06:07:49 pm 
Started by Techshooter - Last post by Techshooter
I just stickied this, becuase I think this is a thread that can last a long while.  I am also going to add different catagories to the first post. Those would be:

Favorite range blaster

Favorite RoF blaster

Favorite "Just for fun" blaster

Favorite "all around" blaster

As for me, for my favorite range blaster, I like my hoppered 4B. The thing is dead accurate, and the range is great.

For RoF, I currently like my minusbow. I thought it would be rather lond, but it's perfect for me. The priming is smooth,  it has a K25, and it gets the same range as my 4b. Emptying the 10shot clip in a couple of seconds is too much fun.

My favorite "just for fun" blaster is my praxis. Those disks are just too much fun...

And my favorite "all around blaster" is the NF. Mine shoot just as far as most primaries, and its tiny.

@Yks, I forgot about this thread, and my post could use an update:

Range: It's either between my +bow or my 4B now. The accuracy of the 4B is fun, but the +bow has that something special to it.....

RoF: The Stampede. Hands down it's my favorite modded. It gets decent range, and after you put a different battery in it, it's balanced quite well.

Just for Fun: I love the jolt. I love sneaking up on my friends with that thing in my pocket.

All Around: It's a tie between my +bow and NF still. I love the versatility of the NF, but the +bow has that something special.......

 49 
 on: January 05, 2015, 06:54:13 am 
Started by Techshooter - Last post by yksnerf

Favorite range blaster

Favorite RoF blaster

Favorite "Just for fun" blaster

Favorite "all around" blaster

Bampin' this topic because I'm trying to breathe some life into FU and HoF.

I've got multiple choices for each category.

Range blaster:
For screwing around, a titan. You can do anything with this and it will have the power to keep up. Coop's thrown one in a maverick before - they're surprisingly compact if you integrate them.

For HvZ or indoor, since I got it recently, I've taken a liking to Supermaxx 1500s - rotating turret, air powered, 4 shots. Good stuff. Especially with rear loading. If you don't want to hurt people, just pump the thing once.

For a legit war, I'd say a Supermaxx 1500 as well. Pump it twice and you're good to go with 100-140 foot ranges depending on darts. It's sexy as hell.

RoF blaster
HvZ or indoor, Raider, hands down. OMW kit in there is absolute madness when I play HvZ - Slam fire is a gimmick but I've used it quite a lot vs melee people where accuracy and range are less of an issue. I say the Raider over an Alpha Trooper because I've never used the latter, and I absolutely love the ergonomic of a Raider - Even with a side mounted 35 dart drum.

Legit war, I'm not going to count "____ with a hopper" because that's literally any Nerf gun out there. You can put a hopper on a Nitefinder and get 40-50 foot ranges - Flywheels I'm throwing out the window as well because they're all higher ROF and I hate flywheels more than I hate Mavericks and Vulcans.

My answer for this one is a Longshot with an angel breech. Shooting >100ft and you can use a 35 dart drum.

Just for fun

Just screwing around, I love Secret Strikes. They're so fun and small and I wish I would've stocked up on them when they were $1.50 at WalMart. You can do anything with one of these.

Doing something like going to someone's house and shooting Nerf guns at each other around a room, I love Recons. No real reason, I just like the small size and clip system.

All around is easily the Longshot. You can do anything with one of these in one of the coolest shells ever made. I'd say it's better than an Xbow for modding to be honest.

 50 
 on: January 05, 2015, 06:24:47 am 
Started by yksnerf - Last post by yksnerf
Direct copy/paste from FU - I've got a lot more writeups in the works if I'm not too lazy to do them.  TOMORROW HOPEFULLY

++++++++++++++++++++++

I'm glad to be back. I haven't touched a Nerf gun in over 2 years and I'm pumped to be modding again.

Today I thrifted up a large amount of Nerf guns at a Salvation Army near me. To start with, I'm modifying the Titan I got for 99 cents. If it had the missile attachment and missiles with it, I'd probably leave it stock; however it's got neither, so I'm going to single and coupler it.

I've never seen the internals one of these in pictures or in person, or if I have, I don't remember it.
I'm going in blind!
__________________________________________

For my tools, I just grabbed the basics, a leatherman knockoff, screwdrivers, a hacksaw, hot glue gun, wire cutters, and pliers (not pictured) as well as various lights and knives for my use.



Make sure to grab your healthy beverages.



To start yourself out, begin removing all the screws from the blaster. This was a pain for me, as they were all in condition like this:



There are these four screws in this piece that locks the missile barrel on, these don't necessarily have to be removed. I opted to take them off because I didn't want them.



The screw on the right here was entirely stripped out and could not be removed.



My solution for this is to apply a wedge, in this case I used the knife to be constantly prying it open.
Then, carefully put the tip of a heated soldering iron onto the head of the screw. It will heat and soften the plastic, and the case will come apart.



Here's what it looks like after I've done that.



This orange ring is holding the case together, you can either cut and break it off or choose to gently break the glue if you wish to keep it intact.



I opted to cut it and then pry the ring the rest of the way off.





Moving onto an internals shot. Quite simple.



The first thing I took issue with was the trigger.



It operates by the black arm being pulling on the release pin of the air tank when the trigger is pulled.

Here's an idea of how much wiggle room it has without even doing anything, I highlighted the black arm/bar.



My first remedy for that, I put a small piece of spacer plastic that was snug enough to fit on its own (I don't have a good picture of this),
and then threw hot glue on that. That way, the black arm can't move around on its own and will start moving as soon as the trigger is moved.



Next, I took this piece of plastic,



And pressed it down between the black bar & where it pushes on the air release pin. This removes the "Dead space" of the trigger pull, and it's a much more satisfying feel.



While I was working around the area, I removed the trigger.



This piece is a safety, and can be removed.



As well, this is the piece of plastic I used to create the spacer found 4 images back, using the following cuts:



There's another safety in the front trigger.



You'll want to remove these as they rattle like an annoying motherf***** any time you move the blaster more than an inch.

Moving to the front for the final step, saw off the air restrictor.



Grab your CPVC coupler. If you don't have one, take a dollar to the hardware store and get yourself a dozen.

My favorite adhesive process is super glue > epoxy > E6000 (my favorite sealant adhesive) > hot glue. I'll explain this.

Super glue, AKA Cyanoacrylate glue, will bond nearly instantly if it's flush with a surface. It's not fantastic for holding heavily stressed things, so I avoid using it as a general adhesive- I use it to stick something somewhere with a relatively high amount of strength while I prepare/apply epoxy and stronger adhesives.

Epoxy is the strongest adhesive out there. It's not glue, and glue isn't epoxy, too many people get this wrong - it's different. Anyways, epoxy takes a long time to cure (24+ hours to be usable in my eyes, I prefer 40+ hours before abusing epoxy bonds though) and isn't a fantastic sealant, however it's incredibly strong strength-wise.

E6000 is very similar to Goop. It has little to no adhesive value, as in if you stick two pieces of plastic together with it, let it cure, and then pull the plastic pieces apart, they're not going to stay together. However, it's a fantastic sealant, which is why I use it at this step in the process.

Finally, grab some hot glue and drench that mofo. It provides a protective casing, cools in under a minute, and will hold things together with the super glue while everything cures.


Yes, this process is incredibly overkill, no you don't need to do it, but I recommend using super glue, E6000 or a lot of epoxy, and then hot glue.

I only had super glue, E6000, and hot glue, so I just used the three.

With super glue,



E6000 which isn't visible and a hefty amount of hot glue.



Even though I do it all the time, I'm strongly advising to not put hot glue on any adhesive that isn't cured/dried yet. Super glue creates acrid fumes that are capable of stinging your eyes and nose and being noticeable for hours to days, E6000 and Goop trash your kidneys and kill your brain cells, and I'm not sure about epoxy but it smells like dog farts if you get hot glue on it which is reason enough for me.

That's my lengthy writeup for a very simple mod, but this is the first thing I've touched in a long time. Glad to be back.

PEACE


---

I also resized the images for this because HoF doesn't auto-resize them. They're a bit squished, I forget the aspect ratio of my camera. deal w/ it

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