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Concept Thread


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« Reply #90 on: March 16, 2012, 07:48:44 am »

I am planning on building a 3" EPVAT after making a Lowes trip. It should be awesome. Along with this, I have future plans to make an RSCB with this.
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« Reply #91 on: March 18, 2012, 12:08:18 am »

Oh Snap! I've seen someone use one of those 6 port PVC-Distributors on a homemade air blaster. Looked bad-ass! They aren't even expensive! I have to accelerate my shopping schedule, 'cause flexpvc is way after mcmasters and I still haven't even gotten to lowes yet..

One idea I had today was for an absolved mini-arrow/mini-grenade turret. The kinda of arrows/grenades you see at the dollar store. 3 arrows per shot and 3 shots? Little homemade turrets are something I want to tackle soon so that's something I'd love to get to.
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« Reply #92 on: March 20, 2012, 04:47:22 pm »

I'm just starting a Sharp-Shot manta. This is a leftover project from taer's awfuls contest. I wanna do a spring/air combo pistol with some integrated sspbs and what not.

Nerf Doctor (or anyone else) do you know any ways to do a lightweight, small salvo tank?
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« Reply #93 on: March 30, 2012, 06:03:35 pm »

I've never had the pleasure of being able to work with a Salvo before. As far as I know, they are backpressure tanks, which i understand, but have never built before. I am currently in the design phase of one, so I'll let you know about my progress.
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« Reply #94 on: April 10, 2012, 03:26:10 pm »

I really want to get this working. A quick follow up shot is what i'm after. I haven't chopped up the second tank yet so just imagine it's hooked to the elbow Smiley It needs to be war legal. I want it to survive a viscous amount of overpumping. I just learned that some deadspace between the check valve and the tank will act as an oprv. I can manipulate the volume for the deadspace quite a bit. Each tank would have a checkvalve & identical volume, and I will remove the checkvalve from the pump. I'm shooting for 1 pump to fill both tanks. I'll probably run 3/8 vinyl tubing from the pump to a small chamber before the 2 tanks. Any help or ideas would ebe appreciated greatly since I don't want to build 2 of these.




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« Reply #95 on: April 10, 2012, 10:05:49 pm »

I don't really know a whole lot about the concept, but I think if you have 1/4 of the pump's overall volume between the pump and the check vavle, it makes it safe(r). I know they talked about it in one of the newsletters on Nrev. It is actually what most of the marshmallow guns are using. You'll probably have to talk to Bob or Obiwontwo for more info.
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« Reply #96 on: April 10, 2012, 11:28:32 pm »

Thanks much! I will ask on nrev and hopefully Bob will answer.
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« Reply #97 on: April 11, 2012, 02:53:26 pm »

It's basically just deadspace, but in the pump itself or between the pump and the tank's back check valve. This way, the pressure from the pump doesn't reach the theoretical infinite, but limits it to a certain pressure, so that if you do continue to pump, not a whole lot of pressure is added to the tank because the pressure inside the tank is holding the check valve closed, the pressure from the pump can't force ti's way into the tank.
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« Reply #98 on: May 11, 2012, 05:10:54 am »

I was thinking about trying a harmonica clip on my bbumb, to really get the dart as close to the valve as possible. Maybe 8-10 darts. I think some sort of spring loaded detent would allow for easy advancement to the next round. And I guess extra clips would be easy to make. I have seen an airzone fywheel gun that used a harmonica clip.
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« Reply #99 on: March 19, 2015, 01:08:24 am »

Decided to get this thread rolling again since school gives me more time to think than it does to actually work on S**T. Considering some of these to see how they work verses faucet washers in a new version of my EPVAT. Seeing as my EPVAT seal was a conical surface touching an o-ring, the sharper angle on the cone should offer a similar, if not better, seal.
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« Reply #100 on: March 20, 2015, 03:23:35 pm »

Decided to get this thread rolling again since school gives me more time to think than it does to actually work on S**T. Considering some of these to see how they work verses faucet washers in a new version of my EPVAT. Seeing as my EPVAT seal was a conical surface touching an o-ring, the sharper angle on the cone should offer a similar, if not better, seal.

I've never even seen those things but they look as if they would provide an excellent seal.
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Ambience 327 [02|Dec 09:13 AM]:   At first I read that as "Chuck Tesla". I thought the world was about to explode, as someone had finally combined the bearded awesomeness of Chuck Norris with the scientific awesomeness of Nikola Tesla... Smiley
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« Reply #101 on: March 20, 2015, 05:12:44 pm »


I've never even seen those things but they look as if they would provide an excellent seal.

Me neither, just found them while looking for a source of beveled washers on Amazon as it's become my new go-to for almost anything.

On a related note, I noticed an old thread on NH where BuffDaddy was using the same 5/8L beveled washer I use for a front seal as the rear seal on an air tank using a 1/4" "pin" just like mine does. I had noticed they were a snug fit on the threaded portion of the bolt that I used, but I had never slid it further down. This basically means that I could "mirror" my front seal using the beveled washer and o-ring to the back of my EPVAT, thus eliminating the need for the brass bits on the back, reducing both size and price of the entire tank/valve assembly. It's almost ironic because I had begun sourcing polypropylene 1/2" x 1/8" adapters to replace most of the brass, but this is a much cheaper solution.

Now, for the unrelated note, I found and bought a fairly cheap bike pump that I think has the potential to be versatile enough to be useful. The handle is threaded on meaning I just need to find the thread size and I can use whatever I want for it, and the top has a cap, so if the handle rod seems too flimsy, it should be fairly easy to replace. I guarantee that the tube unscrews from that base, so I should be able to just glue it into a bushing and have connectivity options. Lastly, even without needing to modify it, you have a decently long hose that can just connect to either schrader or presta valves, 1/4" threaded versions of which are readily available, meaning this should be able to just be zip-tied onto anything and work with minimal effort.
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« Reply #102 on: March 22, 2015, 09:04:17 am »

Continuing my trend of thinking of ideas more than I do anything useful, I've now decided I need to work on Buffdaddy's Homemade Pulsestrike design. I'm designing it around a 1.25" PVC tank and my awesome K34 spring. For the piston, I've got 1"x.5" reducer bushings with internal ridges sanded out so they can be placed back to back using a piece of .5" PVC. This piece will stick out both sides of the bushings and will have a .5" coupler on the back side and a 1/2"x.375" reducer bushing on the front compressing a 1.25" skirt seal on either side. Instead of just using spring spacers like Buffdaddy, I'm fairly concerned with the K34 behaving under compression, so there will be a .5" CPVC "guide" that the piston will ride on and will help to hold the spring in place. To seal around this, I'll be using a second size of skirt seal glued to the front of the .5"x.375" bushing and will seal around the CPVC guide. This will introduce a second sealing surface into the tank, but I feel that it's worth it to ensure the spring will be stable. On the back will be a 1.5" threaded coupler so I can simply screw on a 1.25"x .5" bushing to hold the CPVC in place. On the front, a 1.25"x1" threaded adapter to hook my solenoid valve to. This is kind of an awkward tank to use as the only valves that can be used are ball valves or check valves due to the inner workings of the tank. Actually, just now thinking about it, the center CPVC guide means that a pin or backpressure setup could be used, giving more that just a single reason to consider the center guide. I'll try and have somewhat decent drawings up sometime with measurements and part numbers for anyone interested.
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« Reply #103 on: March 23, 2015, 03:11:53 am »


Details for my PulseStrike. Due to the ID(inner diameter) of 1.25" PVC being 1.38" and the OD(outer diameter) of 1" PVC being 1.315", 1" Bushings, when the large ends are shaven down, will fit nicely inside 1.25" PVC while still having a tight enough fit to keep a good seal with the .675"x1.375" U-Cups. In fact, in theory I would be able to just use 1" PVC and the two U-Cups to form a perfect seal without the CPVC guide rod if the K34 weren't such an issue. When I do get around to this, I'll definitely test this with just the cylinder first to see if it'll work. As I noted before though, the CPVC guide rod does open this tank design up to a wider variety of valves, including backpressure valves; I'm excited about this as backpressure valves are ridiculously powerful and efficient on their own, nevermind with this as a tank. Also, I'm considering buying clear PVC when I shop for this project; not only is clear PVC just badass, it's pressure rating is within safe ranges, and it'll allow me to watch the tank in action, providing useful testing data.

Edit: So, my bad, this is what I get trying to work with decimals at 4am, but everywhere that I've written .675, there's a really good chance I mean .875.

Edit 2: I've now discovered that the use of CPVC and a second size of U-Cup is completely unnecessary. The .875" ID of the U-Cup is perfect for .5" PVC, if the guide rod is needed. This means I can just use the U-Cups glued onto .5"x.75" bushings shoved inside a piece of 1" PVC as the piston.
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Edit #3: I spelled the name wrong, so for about 10 minutes, our website logo was "Hoe of Foam".
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« Reply #104 on: March 25, 2015, 03:59:23 pm »

Idea time: I've been planning on working on a backpressure valve for awhile now, even talked to torukmakto4 on the workings of his two setups that he'd shown in the forums there, and I now have a better idea. Both of his setups were using .5" CPVC, which is .5" ID .625", as the valve opening, which works fine, but isn't quite the flow I'm looking for. Using the .75" CPVC cap for the piston and the .5" CPVC barrel, there is a 4.41:1 ratio. I've decided to use 1" PVC as a barrel and 1.25" PVC cap as the piston for a massive airflow device. This should in theory grant more airflow than my 1" solenoid valve, and will be self contained. I'm thinking the smallest thing I'll actually be able to shoot with this and still find the darts will be my 2' triple barrel setup, but I may have to make an absolver with 1'-2' barrels to full capitalize on the airflow. Or I could make an adapter to put my Titan rocket barrel from Pedoonis on something other than a Titan, another project I've been working on.
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