Home Of Foam

Pretty much a place to discuss your ideas you may have that you can't actually work on, due to constraints of any kind(money, supplies, time). I find this most useful whenever I come up with some of my "2 in the morning, bored and just on here because I'm looking around" ideas. This should be stickyed since there may be periods of time when nobody has any ideas at all(which I disagree with, since everybody is capable of thought), and we don't want to worry about necros.

Great idea... It is now a sticky.

First idea: Buzz Bee Torrent with shell eject arm removed, shells glued into turret?

Thats a good idea doc, or maybe you could link the shells like on a belt blaster.
Mydea, a throwable hornet tank w/ blast button on the bottom, like a grenade.

I'm pretty sure the Lanard Scatter Blast already covers that. But, If you carve out a pocket vortex and put it in there, then you could launch it out of larger blasters, like Titans.

Double post for different idea: Airtank backpack with regulator attached to the tank. 100 psi in the tank going down to about 30 going through a line to a blaster of choice.

Double posts don't matter in this topic. Its okay to

Anyone ever see my post on NR about the +Carbine?

Have you started that yet? Anyway, I have a couple of ideas for some of my old mods.

I'm going to make a super duper extended draw BigFinder that uses a K26. The plunger rod is going to be 3/16 PVC rod.

I also have to fix the Predator Missle. Some polycarb and solvent weld on the second half of the plunger rod.

KiDD-I haven't seen a post yet, but am looking forward to it.

Also, I recently discovered Google Sketchup, so I will probably be posting ideas more often, soon as I can figure it out,

SNAP Carbine with a dowel rod coming from the piston to hold smaller diameter springs in place. Cut a hole in the part of the stock the spring rests against so the rod can slide inside the stock.

Anyone remember FA24's mongo titan?

I thought of a mongo Quadshot.... It'd add a hell of alot of weight to the turret, but it'd be awesome as hell. I'd attempt it but no one around me sells 1" FBR around me.

You can take and cut the top half of airzone arrows off, weight it, and use it as mongos.

I was thinking about intagrating a barracade into a big blast,but I dont know if there is anything in the handle.

Welcome foamie hoamie, good idea.(Caught you off guard posting off the welcome in thread didnt I?)
I was thinkin about a longshot with integrated clip like quick 16.

(http://img163.imageshack.us/img163/7272/205739.th.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/163/205739.jpg/)

Started working on it.

I know Rogue made a longshot with an itegrated barricad. I don't think there is anything in the handle, but you've already foud that out...

One of the projects I'm going to start working on is making a removeable 3 shot turret. I also need to replace the PR on the BigFinder...

<script src='http://img13.imageshack.us/shareable/?i=211634.jpg&p=tl' type='text/javascript'></script><noscript>(http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/7590/211634.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/13/211634.jpg/)</noscript>
@ Techshooter,You were the insperation for mine.

I don't think I've inspired anyone before... It feals good!

What exactly is it? I see that the plunger tube is massive on that thing, and so are the barrels. Can you give us more details on it?

Its a nf handle, trigger and pr.With a ls plunger head and tube.Hits 65 to 70 feet.

Oh, so its like Ice9's frankenfinder. Very cool.

Thanks

Um, hey, this is the concept thread. You usually shouldn't post pics here unless you're trying to explain how something would work.

First off, this thread is an awesome idea and I wish nerfHQ had a thread like this.

After working on my T.U.N.A. ( http://www.nerfhq.com/smf/index.php?topic=11296.0 (http://www.nerfhq.com/smf/index.php?topic=11296.0) ), I thought about making a similar system but with a trigger. Basically, it would be a reverse plunger that hooked up to a pressurized-air powered rifle. The advantages of this would be that it would only take one pump to fire, and you'd get a lot of pressure with that one pump. Of course, the reverse plunger parts would have to be made of some sort of metal that can hold pressure, because PVC could shatter. Maybe two layers of brass? And if you had multiple sizes of brass telescoping into each other, you could have a LOT of pressure. The only disadvantage I see to this is that it would require a lot of muscle to pump it.

Anybody got an air rifle lying around?  ;D I could probably whip up some sort of diagram if anyone is interested.

MORE NEW MEMBERS? Welcome my foamie hoamie! Anyway, that sounds nice, and the T.U.N.A looks badass. (Why is the concept thread becoming the place for people's first post?)

Probably because on any other site you're get flamed and banned.

Yeah, I liked T.U.N.A. A longer barrel may get you better ranges.

I liked the T.U.N.A.. The paintjob was really cool, too. It just needed some orange on the tip...

Anyway, if your using brass like 17/32 and that stuff, its not rated for pressure. Its used for making lamps. Some PVC is rated for pressure (1/2in. CPVC is rated for 120PSI). If your really parranoid about it blowing up, solvent weld 1in. PVC into 1.25in. PVC. That won't blow. It'd be around an inch thick, which is how thick duct tape has to be if you make a cannon.

Oh, and...   WELCOME!!! Introduce yourself in the "come on in" section. The puch dealer beat me to the foamie homie thing, so your a second hand foamie homie (sorry)

Thanks. I don't know if you saw my (really crappy) firing videos, but I eventually got around to spray painting the tip orange.

Anyways, I'm not that paranoid about the PVC failing but I would at least use schedule 80 or copper, steel, aluminum, etc. If I was using the dimensions I had in the T.U.N.A., I would not be concerned but with a telescoping system or a higher-pressure ratio (maybe 1/2" to 1.5+") I definitely would be. Also, a longer chamber would allow the use of a longer barrel (duh).

The hard part would be making a completely airtight seal. Even the weather stripping I used wasn't completely airtight, but it was more airtight than most O-rings. Any ideas?

Goop is good for airtight seals.

Well, I mean as an O-ring replacement for the plunger. I guess I can try multiple layers of weatherstripping and/or multiple O-rings?

Oh.. silly me...

Teflon tape + O rings is what I use to get perfect seals. Fender washers will work nice too.

Hmm... I'll give it a shot. I recently ordered an assorted O-ring kit from Amazon, something every Nerfer should have. Hopefully I'll be able to find some that will fit.

Along those lines, a skirt seal would make a perfect seal. There pricey, but they would work great.


Ya, you can get a perfect seal prettsy easily with o-rings. Thats what I did to my HAMP, which now has a perfect seal with an o-ring. Yarn would work to. I have one of those kits, too, that I got from my dad.

Where can I get one of those? Also, where is a good internet parts dealer for nerf guns? I see references to places like mcmaster and others, but I've yet to encounter an actual link.

You can get them from McMasters. (http://www.mcmaster.com/#)You have to put a spacer in the middle to cause them to flare out, but they make a perfect seal.

HAI GUISE

So, this is something I thought of. A spring fed hopper.

Nihil made a spring-fed RSCB a while ago, using AR springs. Since its deadspace reducing, I think it could potentially be put on a NF.

Someone on FU wanted do do one, and now I think its possible.... only problem, I have no wyes, so someone with some could try it out?

Heres the link for the spring fed RSCB: CLICK MEH BABEH! (http://www.nerfrevolution.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=793&p=8988#p8988)

You could also use the wire from spiral notebooks.  The only problem is if they compress they don't......un-compress so you'd have to get one of those fancy-preschoolers-think-they're-cool-but-everyone-else-thinks-they're-s***-notebooks with the rubbers covering because they're much better quality.

LEIN(now in lime green)

Thank you! I just bookmarked that site.


I'm confused. Isn't a clip a spring-fed hopper? Or is there something I'm misunderstanding?

EDIT:
Hey, what about a motorized hopper? That way there wouldn't be any chance of double-loading and the number of jams would be significantly reduced!

You guys are stating to cunfuse me about the spring fed hopper. The point of the spring fed RSCB was so that you didn't have to point the barrel down every time to fire, not to reduce dead space. If it could reduce deadspace, the springs would have to be much stronger. Plus, you would then have to load the clip part of the hopper through the front. Hoppers don't drop that much range, anyway...

The motorized hopper really confuses me. Can yo uexplain it more? If you use 3cm. darts, you shouldn't have any jams. I haven't had any in my hoppers...

Some guy had a notebook one that reduced deadspace. I know hoppers don't drop range by much, but a NF doesn't have much air output, and I like to get the best range out of my blasters.

*cough* Range Wh*re *cough* Anyway, making a hopper work with a NF would be supper hard... I like the idea, though. You could use a double sided clip.

Me no get...

Yeah, I like the idea. I don't like have 1 shot on a pistol.... shame.

I don't have a NF so I can't help any there.

Anyways, to completely start a new topic, I've got this broken barrel break I want to do stuff to. Any ideas? I've already replaced the O-ring (the new one is 100% airtight w00t) and done all the standard stuff. I think I'm gonna use double springs with the stock spring plus a longstrike spring. I've also been working on a brass-free airtight breech, using PVC and some stock barrel material (the stuff with the grooves).

The big thing is that one of the plungers was destroyed by my brothers. Because of this, only one of the barrels will fire. I was thinking about putting something like a flashlight or whatever in the other, so that when you pulled the trigger to fire the left barrel a flashlight turned on and then full depress to fire. I could also use like a laser pointer and have a laser-guided barrel break.  

You can always do this. (http://www.nerfrevolution.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=3080) It replaces the stock plunger tubes with NF plunger tubes.

Hmmm... Unfortunately, I don't think I'll be getting my hands on any of those materials anytime soon....  :-\ I wonder if I can increase the draw by replacing the plunger and plunger tube with those from a longstrike? I would end up with a plunger tube sticking out of the back of the gun when cocked. It would be interesting, to say the least.
Part transplants FTW?

After watching a video about a magstrike with a titan underneath.  The magstrike bladder fills the titan tank and then the titan tank fires, but what if I could do the opposite?  So I came up with this-Sorry about the pic but I can't seem to get it to work, here's a link-http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/153/magsetup.png/

(http://img153.imageshack.us/img153/5750/magsetup.png)

My only problem with this setup would be that when the air goes into the bladder it might pop it so any ideas or
suggestions? :D

Tech edit: I fixed you picture and slashed through some of the old stuff thats wrong now.

That would be cool, but you could also do a bunch of other stuff, like putting extra bladders in, puting an air compresser in, replacing the pump, spending forever to dremel out the bladder chamber to allow it to expand fullway, etc. Just as a general rule, MSs aren't that pwerful. you need some serious rebarreling to get them to be very powerful. So, the question is, do you want extreme speed with maybe acceptable power, or decent power with above average speed?

I actually took apart my magstrike once, just to see what exactly went on in the mechanism. I mean, I took apart the little white tube in the top that interrupts the air flow. I haven't seen anyone do this before, but what was inside surprised me. How that thing works is, there's a spring pushing a rod with two plungers of two different sizes into a small tube. The air is released into the gap between the large plunger and the small tube, and the air pressure builds until it pushes the spring far enough back that the small plunger pulls out of the small tube, allowing the pressurized air to be released.

What this means is, if you want to increase range/power with a Titan pump/tank transplant, you would have to take apart the air interrupter and replace the stock spring with a beefier one. Only then will the air pressure build higher than with the stock pump/bladder.

If you didn't understand that, I'll see if I can whip up a diagram. It's hard to explain without seeing it for yourself.

Unless you're saying this and I don't understand, I don't think you understand.  The reason for the titan tank is so you don't have to pump it a billion times.

In that case, you're right. Still, if anyone was to do that drastic of a mod to a magstrike, they might as well replace the spring.

Spring?

Yeah, think of MS's as an automatic tankgun. The tank fills to a certain pressure, which starts to compress a spring, and compressing the spring allows the tank to expand slightly, and then it "pops", releasing all the air in the tank, and then the spring resets the tank. And when I say tank, I mean a certain part of the piston that the tank and the spring are all a part of. But, be careful if you open up the piston, I opened up my RF20 piston, it was hell to put back together, and it never worked right again.

If you upgrade the spring, the tank has to get to a higher pressure before it will nudge the spring, allowing the piston to "pop", and as it will take longer to fill up the piston to the needed pressure, it will slow down the ROF, which is actually beneficial on MSs, because those things will blow through a 10 shot clip in about 1 second, and are very hard to reliably controll. On a stock MS, the best you can hope for is a burst-fire or totally automatic weapon.

Wait, were you directing the comment after mine at me? Becuase if you were, what I was saying was that if you fed the titan using the MS bladder, then you wouldn't use the piston anyway. Look at http://nerfhaven.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=21373 (http://nerfhaven.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=21373) THAT, to get an idea of what I was trying to say. Also, Roboman on NH sells aluminum fabricated AT2K tanks for $20, but they're aluminum, so they're immortal. And they're 2K, so they'll fit inside ANYTHING, if you can connect them to a trigger, which isn't too hard.

I wasn't really directing it at anybody, just throwing it out there. And that's pretty awesome- both the mod and the aluminum AT2K tanks. I wish I knew a machine shop owner  ;)

I made a diagram of the piston assembly, in case anybody doesn't already know how it works. I didn't.

(http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6071/6113978567_b71a0900b5_b.jpg)

On step 4 (the last image) note that the forward O-ring acts as a plunger as it is pushed by the spring. It doesn't do much with such a weak stock spring, but I think it acts as a secondary means of propulsion.



Also, you know how there are two holes in the front (one for each column of darts in the clip)? If you tape over one of the holes, and then load all the darts onto the other side of the clip, wouldn't that theoretically double the power and reduce the firing rate by half (to make the gun more controllable)? I want to try this, but my magstrike is kinda screwed up from when I took it apart. If there was some way to rotate the nozzle thingy, you could permanently shut one of the holes and then rotate it 180 degrees after firing off all the darts on one side of the clip. Just an idea.

First thing: Roboman's tanks are machined from a solid bar of aluminum using a lathe.
Second thing: Step 4: The contraction of the piston actually doesn't act as a second means of propulsion, because as it starts to contract, it seals the front off again pretty quickly.
Third thing: Using half the clip would slow down the rate of fire, but only because it's firing half of the darts (One dart is fired per pop, so it would pop twice, and would fire one dart), but it wouldn't fire twice as powerfully because it's popping twice, not storing twice as much air per pop, and even if it did store twice as much air, it would still have to advance the clip TWICE to get to the next dart, so the ROF would be a quarter of what it originally was. If you really wanted to increase the volume of the piston, just search for "Assault Magstrike" and perform the mods listed there.

Not to be mean or anything, but how long have you been modding nerf guns?

First thing: Yeah, I assumed that.

Second thing: I think you misunderstood. I was actually talking about just that, after the front piston sealed off the opening. However, the narrowed tubing does extend for some length, and     the piston returns to the fully forward position after the violent release of pressurized air. This is what I was talking about. If you still don't understand, then forget about it, because it doesn't matter. I knew that any air that this released would be a) negligible and b) somewhat post-fire, and thus have no effect on the dart; I intended the comment to be food for thought. You see, you could modify this design, make it larger and use a beefier spring, and then use air pressure to just automate a spring-powered gun. I should have stated this to avoid conclusion, and I apologize for not doing so.

Third thing: Again, I think you misunderstood me. What I was saying with the dual-hole thing, was that only one of those holes supplies air to a dart at any given time. The other hole only wastes air pressure. If you tape the hole that's not firing a dart shut, then the only outlet for the pressurized air is through the hole which is propelling a dart. Also, I am aware that it would take two cycles to fire a dart using this method; the only way to alleviate this would be to incorporate an automatically sliding valve in the tip, which would be an astronomically difficult task without machining all new parts from scratch. However, I personally think that this waste of air is of much lesser significance, and in fact is advantageous, due to the decreased ROF. If you thought I didn't know why this mod would decrease the ROF, then you should perhaps re-read my post. I believe that I stated that only one half of the clip would be dispensed.

I am sorry if I seem to be snappy, but school starts in two days and I'm under a lot of stress right now.

As far as nerf experience goes, don't even get me started. 

Oh, and BTW, I updated my barrel break mod. I didn't want to double-post so I didn't really know how to bring it up...

Alright, guys. Lets not start a war here.

I don't blame anyone for snappy attitudes, because I always have them. Just don't go balls out and start a war here. Take it to PMs if you wish.

Okay, okay. I got into one of these arguments on NH a while back, so I know how you feel. I'm sorry I came off rudely.

Now back to the fun stuff: If you wanted to make a sub-tank to rapidly refill the magstrike bladder, why not save $50 and make the "titan tank" out of PVC? They'd be cheaper, you could make several, that way you could swap them out, so you only have to fill tanks pregame, and if you're good with ammo, wouldn't need to re-pump the tanks in game.

So I was watching one of Ice's/Uin13's videos from a while back and he mentioned putting NiteFinder internals in a Sharp Shot. Today I had a scraped NF plunger assembly and a Sharp Shot. Should I attempt this mod?

no, if ice hasn't done it it means

1-he hasn't got to it
2-it was a failure and he didn't want to show it

I'd send ice a message on youtube and ask him if it's possible/make a write-up

Lolz. I was hoping he just forgot about it or he just hasn't gotten too it.

Too much work. If you're talking about the new sharpshots, then I've got something easy for you.
1. Get a 5/8" spade bit, 4" oc CPVC, random other tools, duct tape, and the gun.
2. Remove the old barrel, and use the spade bit on the plunger tube, then put in the cpvc, maybe with a dart stop of some sort, and make it flush with the back of the plunger tube. Then put some duct tape on the front end of the cpvc, just so it will stick inside the muzzle.
3. Add springs, lubricate, re-assemble, etc.
4. Load a stefan, and prime the gun, in that order.
This eliminates all of the deadspace that inverse-plungers create by turning it into a pseudo-standard plunger, the end point of the plunger stroke and the back of the barrel are essentially the same place.

That's like, the exact same thing I did.  I'm getting constant ranges of about 55 ft.

Yeah, I used this method on my jerm-style barrel break, and I really like how well it works. I think eliminators are already set up like this.

Chimera, only with a 1.5" PVAT instead of a Titan tank.

Okay, something I was thinking about today: homemade pulsestrikes are essentially bladders on 'roids, right?

So, put some constriction in the airflow of the HPS, and then put a small chamber to act as a tank at the end of the constriction, then place a WNTS in front of that, then put a wye on it. If it works, it'll be semi-automatic.

Here's a concept I'm working on. This is just the ruff CAD, the detailed one is being worked on.

(http://img840.imageshack.us/img840/6449/hofblast.png)

After I saw Louie's Revshot, I relized how over-complicated it is, and that it isn't very attractive. I moddified the design to make this. I call it the HoFblast, kind of mimicing the name of the Revshot with HoF.

Looks simple, pump action, clip accepting breech, maybe a Rainbow catch?

No, I want it to use a plusbow catch. It already has the sideplates, so I might as well use a plusbow catch. I'm thinking of making it all clear. The good CAD is 1/4 of the way done.

How much would you consider selling these for or would you make a writeup?

I'm not really sure, I don't know how much they would cost yet. It shouldn't be much more than a plusbow.

Double post for important information.

The CAD is done:

(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg7/scaled.php?server=7&filename=hofblastsketch.png&res=medium)

The blaster is going to be only 23 inches long. To save room, I put the trigger and handle in from of the catch, and it will use extension springs instead of a compression spring.

Moneyshot:

(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg825/scaled.php?server=825&filename=moneyshot.png&res=medium)

I hope the handle will be much comfier than what it looks like in that program, maybe a maverick handle with some spraypaint? (what is that program by the way?  Looks interesting)

I'm using Google Sketchup 8. In that program, I can't really make the handle rounded, but in real life, I can. It's a plusbow style handle, just made out of wood. I'm trying to decide whether or not the handle to sideplate attachment piece is needed.

Could probably just use a snap on handle, with a hole cut for the trigger. Also, the extension spring idea is good, but have to be careful not to get your seal smashed to leetle beety beets.

Edit: Just really looked at you design, and had a little light bulb. It looks from where the breech is that the pump grip will be sliding over the area where the barrel will be. For a priming idea: First the breech: have an inner barrel that the dart actually shoots out of anchored to the very front of the blaster, so it doesn't slide back and forth. Have the pump attached to the outer barrel that's part of the breech. Have the inner barrel have a slot for the dart right above the clip, since it doesn't move. Have the outer part of the breech have the slot for the dart where the slots won't line up until the very end of your backward pull of the slide. Then the priming itself: have the pump grip push the back of the barrel against the plunger head, thus pushing the plunger rod into the catch. It would need acompression spring then, to be able to function. If you need pics for this, I'll try to get some up.

I'm not postitive I know what your saying, but to me, it sounds like how the angel breech functions, which is what I plan to use in mine, just made out of PETG tube instead of brass. The extension spring attaches to the back of the plunger rod, not the front. It's going to attach to the back catch plate.I'm going to redo the handle to make it traditionally like a +bow handle. Also, I want as much contribution from the members of HoF in this blaster as possible.

Personally, I like the vertical pump handles a bit better, but my quad's rather comfy. I would suggest putting SOMETHING on the pumpgrip, I think that PVC is jsut a bit too slippery to be used as is. Also, why not just go for the S&G aspect and make it a bullpump design? KTM made a very beautiful one a long time ago.

I agree, PVC is way too slippery normally. I want to use clear PVC, so I will sand it down on the pump grip. I was actually considering a bulpup design when I was designing it, but I relised that making it bullpup would actually make it longer if I wanted it to be confortable. Unless by bulpump you mean what Kane made, that would make it shorter. I considered that, too in the design, but it would make reloading uncomfortable (if I used CS clips), but building it would be easier. Do you have a link to what KTM made, I'm curious.

Also, as an update to the design, I'm changing up the handle a little bit. Expect a new CAD picture up.

Yeah, KaneTheMediore's bullpump.
(http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j171/Ryan201821/2011-04-16_02-46-10_640.jpg)
The clip and the plunger tube wouldn't be aligned on ANY planes if you want the clips to lay perfectly vertically. BUT, Wes's bolt-action clipfed rfile had it coming out the side, just like a Raider. I can't find it right now, but it's in NHaven's homemades thread.

Or you could use Athletic Tape (the stuff that hockey players put on the handles of their sticks (giggity)), I've used it on nerf guns and there's a LOT of stuff it does
-Absorbs sweat (kinda)
-Feels nice
-Grooved so you can hold onto it better
-Will stick to just about ANY surface
Hope this helps ;D

Found Wes's clipfed bolt rifle. http://nerfhaven.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=3861&view=findpost&p=300150 (http://nerfhaven.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=3861&view=findpost&p=300150) (Original Post)

(http://i482.photobucket.com/albums/rr181/Wes7143/Nerf-%20Newer%20Mods%20n%20Stuff/DSCF3657.jpg)
I so want to make one of these things.

^Holy crap that thing is cool!!!

I redid some of my CAD work on the HoFblast. I redid the handle, sideplates, and trigger. I still need to put in the holes for screw ports, and then I'll have my templates up.

(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg571/scaled.php?server=571&filename=hofblastsketch3.png&res=medium)

The handle is more comfy, and it has handle plates that are larger than normal ones, so that it can be rounded with the belt sander. This week is my winter break, so I will be doing a lot of work on the CAD for this.

Yeah, Wes's best work was right before he went off the map.
That's some fast designing. That was what, a week?

Ya, CAD took me right about a week, but I was thinking about the design in my head for much longer. I don't know when I'll get around to making it, because my plusbow is #1 on my list of things to do after I get money.

I keep trying to utilize my xploderz to figure out catches on the way to a full homemade. I finally tried the plunger next to the recon. It looks like it will just fit.

(http://img138.imageshack.us/img138/3745/img1876xo.jpg)

Here's the thing. I have been wanting to try a "Sancho Panza" style blaster like Beaver did. Where the plunger fires back (towards your shoulder) instead of forwards. You have to re-route the air up over the shell, increasing deadspace. But you get the wye much further back and you get the barrel supported alot of the way down. It's alot shorter overall too. This plunger has so much volume I think it's a good candidate for a try.

I think I can get it to prime the way it is now even with the plunger running into the longshot barrel. I'll cut the regular handle off the xploderz priming rod. And then add a priming bar  inside the end of the plunger tube and a slot through the longshot thing.  It's just a matter of if it'll fit and line up.  I've always wanted to prime with that stampede foregrip. I'm going to try to add a ramp and spring inside the foregrip so you can move it back after priming so it doesn't fly towards your face! Lol.

I just have to do the catch. Which will be the first homemade design for me. It seems like a lot of different things to try on one blaster but I hope it'll be fun. Anyways, it might be something to do with this damn recon and xploderz whatever.

That thing is awsome, iamthatcat! Have you thought about using a Reconbow (http://www.nerfrevolution.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=1294) catch for it? It's basically a plusbow catch in a Recon shell.

Yup I have seen it a few times! Unreal blaster. I may do mine very much like that if I can. That page makes me feel like I have dial-up internet. It's still loading! Lol.

I keep getting sidetracked, but I think my skill and parts inventory is now at the level where I can try this:

I wanna do a really high volume air gun and a powerful springer stacked in the same shell. Dunno if I want the springer on top or not yet. The idea is to have multiple ammo types for the airgun. Balls, rockets, arrows, the whole schmear. I'm sure this has been done before but I think I can really shrink it and get it firing really fun ammo. Oh and 2 jolts and an sspb cluster thrown in for close range & panic shots.

Then when I get to Nerf Doctor's skill & knowledge levels, I wanna try it 100% homemade with the air stuff running off a single pump.

^Thanks! It's nice hearing it called 'skill and knowledge' rather than just 'useless stuff' that people at school like to call it, but they just don't understand it is all. As far as knowledge, it just takes having the supplies and tools, and then being able to experiment to find what works. It also takes being really bored in pre-calculus(and realizing it would have been less boring, if more work, to have gone on to calculus) to give me the time needed to think up stuff.

As far as thinking up stuff, some ideas for thought:
With absolvers, I figured up that, to keep the hexagonal formation, the next highest numbers of barrels for one would be 37, and then 62. Each one of these is just under the number of the previous ones, meaning it would take roughly double the volume of air of each to fire the next one up effectively. This is where my second ideas come in.

My current EPVAT consists of 2" fittings, giving me an internal volume of around 9.425 ci. If I were to use 3" fittings, and make one around the same length, that would give me 2.625 times the volume, at 24.740ci. Even more impresive, with 4" fittings, and the same length, I would get 4.667 time the volume of the 2", at 43.982ci. 

Not only would this be insanely huge, the sheer expulsion of that air at around 50 psi would be like sticking a ball valve on a fire extinguisher and using it. I suddenly have a hankering to go buy some PVC.....(:

That would be NUTS! What do you think that would do with a Vortex mini football? That's the holy grail for me.

37 barrels sounds like a doable setup! Mayhem with shotgun loads!! I do have a 7 barrel one that fires 27 darts and makes a nice sound on concrete. 100+ would sound like a thunderstorm!!

BTW I am trying a combo of a CPVC threaded  female coupler on the blaster and a Conduit male coupler on my absolver. CPVC has great durable threads! There's a rubber washer in the back of the female and the conduit is airtight when tightened. Something I haven't been able to achieve with PVC. I had to really cherry-pick through the bins to find ones with threads that worked well.

The Vortex footballs are actually on my list of stuff to do. I'll probably use my solenoid valve with them though, to get higher airflow than then 1/2" fittings I'm currently using.

With enough CPVC, anything is possible.

I usually use female fittings on my attachments, and male for my blaster. That way, with absolvers, the reducer bushing screws right on the blaster.

"I usually use female fittings on my attachments, and male for my blaster. That way, with absolvers, the reducer bushing screws right on the blaster."

Ahhh I see.. I need to go back to Home Depot! Lol.

Edit : Just tried it your way with 3/4" fittings and the male end is a great match to the Big Blast tank's stub. Thanks! I am glad you responded as I'll likely glue it up tonight.


Ok so for my next trick.. How about an absolved set of inline clips? 4 lengths of PVC look like they'll fit into a 1 1/2 endcap. Should be able to do some sort of breech on each barrel. With enough air output it should push multiple darts out the front. Might be fun to have a longer range shotgun. This is for lulz not wars. Dunno how folks would feel about getting peppered at 100'! Lol.

I am planning on building a 3" EPVAT after making a Lowes trip. It should be awesome. Along with this, I have future plans to make an RSCB with this (http://flexpvc.com/cart/agora.cgi?product=PVC-Distributors).

Oh Snap! I've seen someone use one of those 6 port PVC-Distributors on a homemade air blaster. Looked bad-ass! They aren't even expensive! I have to accelerate my shopping schedule, 'cause flexpvc is way after mcmasters and I still haven't even gotten to lowes yet..

One idea I had today was for an absolved mini-arrow/mini-grenade turret. The kinda of arrows/grenades you see at the dollar store. 3 arrows per shot and 3 shots? Little homemade turrets are something I want to tackle soon so that's something I'd love to get to.

I'm just starting a Sharp-Shot manta. This is a leftover project from taer's awfuls contest. I wanna do a spring/air combo pistol with some integrated sspbs and what not.

Nerf Doctor (or anyone else) do you know any ways to do a lightweight, small salvo tank?

I've never had the pleasure of being able to work with a Salvo before. As far as I know, they are backpressure tanks, which i understand, but have never built before. I am currently in the design phase of one, so I'll let you know about my progress.

I really want to get this working. A quick follow up shot is what i'm after. I haven't chopped up the second tank yet so just imagine it's hooked to the elbow :) It needs to be war legal. I want it to survive a viscous amount of overpumping. I just learned that some deadspace between the check valve and the tank will act as an oprv. I can manipulate the volume for the deadspace quite a bit. Each tank would have a checkvalve & identical volume, and I will remove the checkvalve from the pump. I'm shooting for 1 pump to fill both tanks. I'll probably run 3/8 vinyl tubing from the pump to a small chamber before the 2 tanks. Any help or ideas would ebe appreciated greatly since I don't want to build 2 of these.

(http://img577.imageshack.us/img577/7496/img2244bp.jpg)

I don't really know a whole lot about the concept, but I think if you have 1/4 of the pump's overall volume between the pump and the check vavle, it makes it safe(r). I know they talked about it in one of the newsletters on Nrev. It is actually what most of the marshmallow guns are using. You'll probably have to talk to Bob or Obiwontwo for more info.

Thanks much! I will ask on nrev and hopefully Bob will answer.

It's basically just deadspace, but in the pump itself or between the pump and the tank's back check valve. This way, the pressure from the pump doesn't reach the theoretical infinite, but limits it to a certain pressure, so that if you do continue to pump, not a whole lot of pressure is added to the tank because the pressure inside the tank is holding the check valve closed, the pressure from the pump can't force ti's way into the tank.

I was thinking about trying a harmonica clip on my bbumb, to really get the dart as close to the valve as possible. Maybe 8-10 darts. I think some sort of spring loaded detent would allow for easy advancement to the next round. And I guess extra clips would be easy to make. I have seen an airzone fywheel gun that used a harmonica clip.

Decided to get this thread rolling again since school gives me more time to think than it does to actually work on S**T. Considering some of these (http://www.amazon.com/Brass-Craft-SCB2028-8Cone-Washer/dp/B000BQWXMG/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1426744743&sr=8-7&keywords=5%2F8+faucet+washer) to see how they work verses faucet washers in a new version of my EPVAT. Seeing as my EPVAT seal was a conical surface touching an o-ring, the sharper angle on the cone should offer a similar, if not better, seal.

I've never even seen those things but they look as if they would provide an excellent seal.

Me neither, just found them while looking for a source of beveled washers on Amazon as it's become my new go-to for almost anything.

On a related note, I noticed an old thread on NH (http://nerfhaven.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=24624) where BuffDaddy was using the same 5/8L beveled washer I use for a front seal as the rear seal on an air tank using a 1/4" "pin" just like mine does. I had noticed they were a snug fit on the threaded portion of the bolt that I used, but I had never slid it further down. This basically means that I could "mirror" my front seal using the beveled washer and o-ring to the back of my EPVAT, thus eliminating the need for the brass bits on the back, reducing both size and price of the entire tank/valve assembly. It's almost ironic because I had begun sourcing polypropylene 1/2" x 1/8" adapters to replace most of the brass, but this is a much cheaper solution.

Now, for the unrelated note, I found and bought a fairly cheap bike pump (http://www.ebay.com/itm/381058545966?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT) that I think has the potential to be versatile enough to be useful. The handle is threaded on meaning I just need to find the thread size and I can use whatever I want for it, and the top has a cap, so if the handle rod seems too flimsy, it should be fairly easy to replace. I guarantee that the tube unscrews from that base, so I should be able to just glue it into a bushing and have connectivity options. Lastly, even without needing to modify it, you have a decently long hose that can just connect to either schrader or presta valves, 1/4" threaded versions of which are readily available, meaning this should be able to just be zip-tied onto anything and work with minimal effort.

Continuing my trend of thinking of ideas more than I do anything useful, I've now decided I need to work on Buffdaddy's Homemade Pulsestrike (http://nerfhaven.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=21513) design. I'm designing it around a 1.25" PVC tank and my awesome K34 spring. For the piston, I've got 1"x.5" reducer bushings with internal ridges sanded out so they can be placed back to back using a piece of .5" PVC. This piece will stick out both sides of the bushings and will have a .5" coupler on the back side and a 1/2"x.375" reducer bushing on the front compressing a 1.25" skirt seal on either side. Instead of just using spring spacers like Buffdaddy, I'm fairly concerned with the K34 behaving under compression, so there will be a .5" CPVC "guide" that the piston will ride on and will help to hold the spring in place. To seal around this, I'll be using a second size of skirt seal glued to the front of the .5"x.375" bushing and will seal around the CPVC guide. This will introduce a second sealing surface into the tank, but I feel that it's worth it to ensure the spring will be stable. On the back will be a 1.5" threaded coupler so I can simply screw on a 1.25"x .5" bushing to hold the CPVC in place. On the front, a 1.25"x1" threaded adapter to hook my solenoid valve to. This is kind of an awkward tank to use as the only valves that can be used are ball valves or check valves due to the inner workings of the tank. Actually, just now thinking about it, the center CPVC guide means that a pin or backpressure setup could be used, giving more that just a single reason to consider the center guide. I'll try and have somewhat decent drawings up sometime with measurements and part numbers for anyone interested.

(http://i.imgur.com/pkZo0v7l.jpg) (http://imgur.com/pkZo0v7)
Details for my PulseStrike. Due to the ID(inner diameter) of 1.25" PVC being 1.38" and the OD(outer diameter) of 1" PVC being 1.315", 1" Bushings, when the large ends are shaven down, will fit nicely inside 1.25" PVC while still having a tight enough fit to keep a good seal with the .675"x1.375" U-Cups. In fact, in theory I would be able to just use 1" PVC and the two U-Cups to form a perfect seal without the CPVC guide rod if the K34 weren't such an issue. When I do get around to this, I'll definitely test this with just the cylinder first to see if it'll work. As I noted before though, the CPVC guide rod does open this tank design up to a wider variety of valves, including backpressure valves; I'm excited about this as backpressure valves are ridiculously powerful and efficient on their own, nevermind with this as a tank. Also, I'm considering buying clear PVC when I shop for this project; not only is clear PVC just badass, it's pressure rating is within safe ranges, and it'll allow me to watch the tank in action, providing useful testing data.

Edit: So, my bad, this is what I get trying to work with decimals at 4am, but everywhere that I've written .675, there's a really good chance I mean .875.

Edit 2: I've now discovered that the use of CPVC and a second size of U-Cup is completely unnecessary. The .875" ID of the U-Cup is perfect for .5" PVC, if the guide rod is needed. This means I can just use the U-Cups glued onto .5"x.75" bushings shoved inside a piece of 1" PVC as the piston.

Idea time: I've been planning on working on a backpressure valve for awhile now, even talked to torukmakto4 (http://forums.humansvszombies.org/index.php?action=profile;u=10688) on the workings of his two setups that he'd shown in the forums there, and I now have a better idea. Both of his setups were using .5" CPVC, which is .5" ID .625", as the valve opening, which works fine, but isn't quite the flow I'm looking for. Using the .75" CPVC cap for the piston and the .5" CPVC barrel, there is a 4.41:1 ratio. I've decided to use 1" PVC as a barrel and 1.25" PVC cap as the piston for a massive airflow device. This should in theory grant more airflow than my 1" solenoid valve, and will be self contained. I'm thinking the smallest thing I'll actually be able to shoot with this and still find the darts will be my 2' triple barrel setup, but I may have to make an absolver with 1'-2' barrels to full capitalize on the airflow. Or I could make an adapter to put my Titan rocket barrel from Pedoonis on something other than a Titan, another project I've been working on.

@NerfDoctor, I saw you mention clear PVC in one of your posts, and I wouldn't recommend it. I've heard of clear PVC breaking quite easily in snaps. They are more susceptible to UV rays than normal PVC, causing them to be slightly more dangerous.

Other than that your ideas sound good. No clue how you could think of anything at 4am. My friend made a Nerfish marshmallow launcher for a physics project, and it used a valve system like yours. He made it out of brass pipe, but I can't remember how he made the valve. I'll have to ask him.

A concept that I've been wanting to make: a 3 in. shorter Pumpbow Lt. Stefan style. My dream plan is to make it use Nerf clips, like a pump action Longshot. I've been thinking of this plan for awhile now, I just haven't done it yet.

Yeah, UV damage is an issue, but the ability to see the internals working is important enough I'll go for the clear, then have an outer casing to use in the sunlight of either another piece of PVC or just a length of cloth.

In theory, a 1.25" bushing should fit over the front of an AT2K tank and a 1.25" cap over the back and the bushing. It needs to be one of the really dead-spacey bushings, and you need to drill a hole in the cap, but then you have an easy way to coupler the tank while you reinforce it for stupid pressures.

Ok, so you may remember this picture of progress towards my failed masterkey project
(http://i.imgur.com/4T8awJw.jpg) (http://imgur.com/4T8awJw)
Sorry for 5yo blur as F**K, but it's given me an idea. I'm going to attempt to do a tank reinforcement and tank expansion on a BBUMB at the same time. I'll drill holes into the actual tank to allow airflow, then glue a 1.5"x.5" threaded bushing over the front; the .5" section actually fits fairly snugly around the original barrel and valve opening and is threaded for different barrel setups, and the 1.5" part seals against the ridge of the tank as seen in the picture. For the back half, I can again drill some holes for flow, glue some CPVC around the pin, then use a 1.5"x .5" slip bushing with a PVC stub to seal the CPVC and a 1.5" coupler to seal with the front. Using a coupler will give even more support to then tank, and will allow me to space the back bushing away from the tank some if I want to increase the volume more than already. It will also allow me to bolt the rear bushing into the coupler instead of gluing it, meaning I'll be able to remove the bushing in case the string to the pin breaks or there are other issues. Seeing as the front part of the valve on the tank I'll be using has already been cut down(damnit past-me), there's a really good chance I'll end up with the pin misaligning often, especially with a string instead of the trigger pin and lever. I figure this'll end up with somewhat-similar performance to my EPVAT, but with less effort on the seal. It could also be done to a new BBUMB since the shells are nice and spacey. I'd actually really like to shove something like this in a Thunderblast when it comes out for awesome rocket-shooting.

Take a SledgeFire, replace lack-luster internals with an airtank, improve the "breach" seal via craft foam or other squishy material, glue PETG barrels that are as long as the outer barrel into several of the shells, have a triple shot breach loader with backup shells. I've actually never used PETG for barrels before seeing as CPVC was always easier and cheaper to come by, as well as being pretty sturdy, so this will be my first venture with it. Depending on whether or not the outer barrel is bigger around than the shells, I might also consider a spacer for the barrels that will fit in the outer barrel. I figure, the SledgeFire is a really nice shell, and the breach loading reminds me of the DoubleShot, so I'll make it useful.