Added a picture to show exactly where I cut, but I would not advise actually cutting it. Without cutting it, you can still just pull the plungerhead back past the catch ring and to the o-ring wall, but I would not suggest this as I noticed wear on my o-ring after doing this. Eventually though I'll get around to modifying the plungerhead to allow more draw. Also, I have noticed decently better performance from both barrels after simply applying teflon tape to the plungerhead, so I guess it just has a S**Tty seal stock.

Yeah, this, the SharpFire, and the new SnapFire are essentially giant Jolts, with the SharpFire also having a different priming mech. And the camera is a 14megapixel Olympus Stylus 5010, so the pictures are huge when you click on them, but I still need to find somewhere with decent lighting.

Saw the DoubleDown for the first time awhile back and decided I needed what was essentially Nerf's answer to the SNAP

So I bought one.

It's a little bigger than I thought it would be, but my hands still manage to make it look tiny.


First things first, take the 6 screws out of the left side of the handle


Then, pry the left side of the handle off, take a moment to appreciate the simple catch system

then separate the handle from the body of the blaster, leaving you with this

Quick note here, the very front of the barrels comes off with a single screw, but it doesn't do anything useful


Continuing on, remove the 4 screws from the rear of the plungertube and remove the plunger assembly from the plungertube


Take a moment to familiarize yourself with the plungerhead.

Inside the plungerhead is a square recess where the plungerrod sits when screwed on via the screw in the front of the plungerhead.

What I ended up cutting out of the catch ring, although you can actually skip this and still be able to use the o-ring wall as a catch, just hold the trigger down longer to shoot well.

Teflon tape under the o-ring for a better seal.

How my plunger cap looks cut down.
For this first part of the mod, which I'm still working on getting decent pictures of since my camera died partway through, I cut down the 2 prongs on the end cap seen in the pictures above. This allows the plungerhead to be pulled farther back and giving us longer draw. This is actually unnecessary, but I also cut the bottom of the catch ring on the plungerhead down so that it won't catch until the back ridge that holds the o-ring, but you can actually pull it back all the way without cutting down anything. Using the original catch notch, I get about 1.5" of draw; using the farther notch, I'm getting about 2.25" of draw Not a huge increase, and not much of a performance boost stock, but with a stronger spring and new barrels that .75" increase will be quite handy.

Now, this will be a multi-part guide as I'm currently swamped with school work and actual work, and I don't have many of my tools here, but I'll work with what I got at the pace that I can. I do plan on going as far as I can with the DoubleDown, and I figure a single topic that I continue to add to is better than several post, so I'll just edit this whenever I do something new to it.

DoubleDown Facts

Uses a "smart AR" system, firing the right barrel first then the left
Tested with a single dart in alternate barrels, the right barrel shoots harder
The handle is actually pretty comfy for me, even though it's small, and I can see it perhaps used as a springer homemade handle for those who don't want 3D printed
The barrel end, while being essentially useless, could be useful for a barrel space/breach "handle" for longer barrels or a possible airgun conversion(thinking about it)
The pull handle on the plungerrod is a good deal sturdier than the NiteFinder, which is the only similar handle I know of.
Seeing as there isn't much holding the body of the blaster to the handle, reinforcement seems like a must for stronger springs.


If you have suggestions for mods to this, feel free to comment.

Edit: More pics of the plungerhead

Take a SledgeFire, replace lack-luster internals with an airtank, improve the "breach" seal via craft foam or other squishy material, glue PETG barrels that are as long as the outer barrel into several of the shells, have a triple shot breach loader with backup shells. I've actually never used PETG for barrels before seeing as CPVC was always easier and cheaper to come by, as well as being pretty sturdy, so this will be my first venture with it. Depending on whether or not the outer barrel is bigger around than the shells, I might also consider a spacer for the barrels that will fit in the outer barrel. I figure, the SledgeFire is a really nice shell, and the breach loading reminds me of the DoubleShot, so I'll make it useful.

Ok, so you may remember this picture of progress towards my failed masterkey project

Sorry for 5yo blur as F**K, but it's given me an idea. I'm going to attempt to do a tank reinforcement and tank expansion on a BBUMB at the same time. I'll drill holes into the actual tank to allow airflow, then glue a 1.5"x.5" threaded bushing over the front; the .5" section actually fits fairly snugly around the original barrel and valve opening and is threaded for different barrel setups, and the 1.5" part seals against the ridge of the tank as seen in the picture. For the back half, I can again drill some holes for flow, glue some CPVC around the pin, then use a 1.5"x .5" slip bushing with a PVC stub to seal the CPVC and a 1.5" coupler to seal with the front. Using a coupler will give even more support to then tank, and will allow me to space the back bushing away from the tank some if I want to increase the volume more than already. It will also allow me to bolt the rear bushing into the coupler instead of gluing it, meaning I'll be able to remove the bushing in case the string to the pin breaks or there are other issues. Seeing as the front part of the valve on the tank I'll be using has already been cut down(damnit past-me), there's a really good chance I'll end up with the pin misaligning often, especially with a string instead of the trigger pin and lever. I figure this'll end up with somewhat-similar performance to my EPVAT, but with less effort on the seal. It could also be done to a new BBUMB since the shells are nice and spacey. I'd actually really like to shove something like this in a Thunderblast when it comes out for awesome rocket-shooting.

 Yeah, it's really annoying going through old threads looking for information and they're all like "Look at image for details" *image link is dead*. Anyway, there's also a way to embed entire Imgur albums, so I'm gonna look into figuring out how to get them to post here.

Marshmallow Blaster $17, red and blue airtank one, great for modding, stupidly powerful

SledgeFire $18.19, $6.66(not kidding) shipping, sold by ToysRUs, can get free shipping by buying more than $25 from them

Zombie Strike Longshot $24.49, sold by ToysRUs, free shipping

Sharpfire Amazon Sharpfire Ebay $10.49, free shipping, basically a large, lateral Jolt

DoubleDown $11.99, oversized Jolt with two barrels, handle has potential for use as a premade handle and trigger for different catches

SlingFire $13.99, basically a better RFR

All of these links except the Marshmallow Blaster are either actual stores on Ebay or Amazon stores. The Marshmallow Blaster link is just a really good deal.

Edit: Well, ignore this I guess. Seems that everything was just on sale for the weekend and is now pricier. No wonder those prices seemed so nice D:

In case you haven't noticed, taking a look at stickied Mods or Homemades threads on most NIC sites yields many pages of painful, dead image links, the largest cases residing in threads such as NerfHaven's Mod and Paintjobs thread, as it's been around since October 2005.


The biggest culprit here is image hosting services deleting images after users have deleted their accounts, or after simply hitting the image limits. Luckily, I've never had this issue as I never used the popular hosting sites, and instead used Servimg; While Servimg certainly has served me well, I'm here now to show you how to use Imgur to host your images to ensure maximum functionality while also ensuring your image links will never die.


First off, this is Imgur; It's a quaint little site, initially created to serve as the main image host for Reddit, but it's now grown it's own community. Word of advice: while it may seem nice at first, avoiding using Imgur for anything other than image hosting is the wisest choice. The community is nice on the surface, but once you get dug in, you get to see how they really are, and it's not pleasant.

Anyway, on to learning to use Imgur. First, you're gonna want to click on the "Sign Up" button.


From here, go ahead and fill out your information, then hit "Sign Up" and a captcha should pop up to confirm your sentience status.


Now, you're back on the homepage, and you're ready to start using Imgur. The easiest way to upload is to drag images directly from your SD card or File Browser onto the page, which will prompt a pop-up.

Just hit "Start Upload" when you're ready. Note, in addition to uploading from your computer/SD card, you can also drag pictures directly from other websites, such as your current image host, to the Imgur page to upload them to your account. In fact, there's even an addon for Firefox(maybe Chrome too) that allows you to just right-click any image to instantly upload it to your Imgur account.

After the image has successfully uploaded, you'll be presented with this screen.

You want to be sure that "Original" is chosen at the bottom, and then copy the entire link in the box "Linked BBCode" to paste into your posts. I'm not sure about Foam Universe, but Home of Foam automatically formats my image links to a decent size, so this will allow you to use a reasonable size for the post, but people will be able to click the picture to view the full sized image for details. S**T's useful, yo.

And that's it, you can now fairly quickly generate image links for your posts that won't disappear, as far as I know, meaning I won't be browsing the Homemade thread in a year's time and be sad at the broken links.
I've never seen one disappear from a deleted account, and I even created a new account, uploaded a pic, then deleted the account, and the link still worked, so good for now. There is no longer a limit on the number of pictures you can upload, but there is a size limit of 10MB I think. This shouldn't be an issue as my 14megapixel pictures directly out of my camera are only 3.1MB, so there's quite a bit of leeway. In fact, the only issue I ever had was trying to upload a 106MB PNG of my PulseStrike design, but that picture was over 106megapixels, which was mainly just experimenting with my scanner.
The addon to allow right-click uploading can be found here.

In theory, a 1.25" bushing should fit over the front of an AT2K tank and a 1.25" cap over the back and the bushing. It needs to be one of the really dead-spacey bushings, and you need to drill a hole in the cap, but then you have an easy way to coupler the tank while you reinforce it for stupid pressures.

Yeah, UV damage is an issue, but the ability to see the internals working is important enough I'll go for the clear, then have an outer casing to use in the sunlight of either another piece of PVC or just a length of cloth.

Idea time: I've been planning on working on a backpressure valve for awhile now, even talked to torukmakto4 on the workings of his two setups that he'd shown in the forums there, and I now have a better idea. Both of his setups were using .5" CPVC, which is .5" ID .625", as the valve opening, which works fine, but isn't quite the flow I'm looking for. Using the .75" CPVC cap for the piston and the .5" CPVC barrel, there is a 4.41:1 ratio. I've decided to use 1" PVC as a barrel and 1.25" PVC cap as the piston for a massive airflow device. This should in theory grant more airflow than my 1" solenoid valve, and will be self contained. I'm thinking the smallest thing I'll actually be able to shoot with this and still find the darts will be my 2' triple barrel setup, but I may have to make an absolver with 1'-2' barrels to full capitalize on the airflow. Or I could make an adapter to put my Titan rocket barrel from Pedoonis on something other than a Titan, another project I've been working on.

Well, seeing as it's from China, it could have been made from just plastic and lead. Joking aside, I'm actually quite happy with it. I'll probably end up throwing a PVC adapter on the end and using it as my modular pump for most of my air powered stuff.

Details for my PulseStrike. Due to the ID(inner diameter) of 1.25" PVC being 1.38" and the OD(outer diameter) of 1" PVC being 1.315", 1" Bushings, when the large ends are shaven down, will fit nicely inside 1.25" PVC while still having a tight enough fit to keep a good seal with the .675"x1.375" U-Cups. In fact, in theory I would be able to just use 1" PVC and the two U-Cups to form a perfect seal without the CPVC guide rod if the K34 weren't such an issue. When I do get around to this, I'll definitely test this with just the cylinder first to see if it'll work. As I noted before though, the CPVC guide rod does open this tank design up to a wider variety of valves, including backpressure valves; I'm excited about this as backpressure valves are ridiculously powerful and efficient on their own, nevermind with this as a tank. Also, I'm considering buying clear PVC when I shop for this project; not only is clear PVC just badass, it's pressure rating is within safe ranges, and it'll allow me to watch the tank in action, providing useful testing data.

Edit: So, my bad, this is what I get trying to work with decimals at 4am, but everywhere that I've written .675, there's a really good chance I mean .875.

Edit 2: I've now discovered that the use of CPVC and a second size of U-Cup is completely unnecessary. The .875" ID of the U-Cup is perfect for .5" PVC, if the guide rod is needed. This means I can just use the U-Cups glued onto .5"x.75" bushings shoved inside a piece of 1" PVC as the piston.

Continuing my trend of thinking of ideas more than I do anything useful, I've now decided I need to work on Buffdaddy's Homemade Pulsestrike design. I'm designing it around a 1.25" PVC tank and my awesome K34 spring. For the piston, I've got 1"x.5" reducer bushings with internal ridges sanded out so they can be placed back to back using a piece of .5" PVC. This piece will stick out both sides of the bushings and will have a .5" coupler on the back side and a 1/2"x.375" reducer bushing on the front compressing a 1.25" skirt seal on either side. Instead of just using spring spacers like Buffdaddy, I'm fairly concerned with the K34 behaving under compression, so there will be a .5" CPVC "guide" that the piston will ride on and will help to hold the spring in place. To seal around this, I'll be using a second size of skirt seal glued to the front of the .5"x.375" bushing and will seal around the CPVC guide. This will introduce a second sealing surface into the tank, but I feel that it's worth it to ensure the spring will be stable. On the back will be a 1.5" threaded coupler so I can simply screw on a 1.25"x .5" bushing to hold the CPVC in place. On the front, a 1.25"x1" threaded adapter to hook my solenoid valve to. This is kind of an awkward tank to use as the only valves that can be used are ball valves or check valves due to the inner workings of the tank. Actually, just now thinking about it, the center CPVC guide means that a pin or backpressure setup could be used, giving more that just a single reason to consider the center guide. I'll try and have somewhat decent drawings up sometime with measurements and part numbers for anyone interested.

Update: kinda weird being the first reply, but I got the end cap off the pump

It took several hours of tearing at it with a razor knife and several pairs of pliers, then I finally boiled it and it pulled right off. Also, the pump shaft is threaded on both ends and the pump head is just screwed on, so if the pump head fits in 1" PVC like I think it will based on sizes, it would be easy to just thread and replace the shaft with something longer.