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Compressed Air Engine (my tenth grade science project) by Techshooter
December 19, 2015, 05:24:10 pm

Re: Homemade Picture Thread! by Techshooter
December 19, 2015, 04:40:27 pm

Re: Nerf DoubleDown Mod Guide: Part 1 by Nerf Doctor
April 05, 2015, 11:52:21 pm

Re: Nerf DoubleDown Mod Guide: Part 1 by Zero96
April 03, 2015, 04:50:23 pm

Re: Nerf DoubleDown Mod Guide: Part 1 by Nerf Doctor
April 01, 2015, 06:48:52 am

Re: Nerf DoubleDown Mod Guide: Part 1 by Techshooter
March 31, 2015, 09:04:37 pm

Nerf DoubleDown Mod Guide: Part 1 by Nerf Doctor
March 31, 2015, 05:34:19 pm

Re: Concept Thread by Nerf Doctor
March 30, 2015, 01:19:42 pm

Re: Concept Thread by Nerf Doctor
March 29, 2015, 08:24:51 am

Re: Guide to Pictures That Won't Disappear by Nerf Doctor
March 28, 2015, 12:31:08 pm

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Pages: [1] 2
1  Everything Nerf. / Modifications / Re: LS Basic mods + Front gun modification & integration. on: January 16, 2015, 06:53:44 pm
*Gets cat.*

But did you get a cat before or after the PETG? This is crucial.

Before... What is going to happen Yks?

Uh oh... reported
2  Everything Nerf. / Modifications / Re: LS Basic mods + Front gun modification & integration. on: January 15, 2015, 03:19:42 pm
*Gets cat.*

But did you get a cat before or after the PETG? This is crucial.
3  Everything Nerf. / Modifications / LS Basic mods + Front gun modification & integration. on: January 15, 2015, 03:58:45 am
I'll probably add a few videos around here to explain stuff better.

I already wrote this entire writeup once. It broke, and I hate having to write this again. It's possible that I'll go over some stuff quickly, if you need clarification let me know and I'll edit the post as well as explain.

Parts list:

-E6000 or Goop (E6000 is better)
-Electrical tape (E-tape)
-O-ring matching the size of the original
-Replacement/additional spring(s)
-Silicone lubricant or white lithium grease
-3" PETG
-Hot glue & gun

Tools list:

-Rotary pipe cutter
-Philips head screwdriver
-Needlenose pliers
-X-Acto knife or similar
-Wire cutters

Start out with your beautiful stock LS.

Using a flat object meant for prying (Don't use a claw hammer, it'll mar your plastic), pry your bolt handle off. Don't put the fulcrum over the slot, you'll cause stress marks, warping, or breakage of the plastic there.

You'll need a larger screwdriver than usual for the main body screws. Here's a visual example of the size that was perfect for me.

Here are the main internals you'll be working on.

I opted to start by removing my bipod for later. This can be done by removing the center screw and pulling the legs off of this assembly. (shown after removal)

Moving to the main internals, pull out the bolt sled and plunger tube assembly. This black piece hanging on there is a safety, chop off both sides of it and throw away the pieces.

Next, locate this pin.

People always complain about removing it, the simplest way is just to grab it with needle nose pliers from the top and slide it out a bit, then pull it the rest of the way.

Next up, grab a rotary pipe cutter, and using moderate tightening, make three rotations with it right here.

Pull the barrel off and you'll be left with this.

Unscrew the back of the plunger tube here.

Pull out the plunger rod, point the barrel up, this will fall out.

Moving to the back, cut these three supports.


You can break off the barrel post if you want, doesn't really make a difference.

Grab a piece of PETG 3" long and slather it with white lithium grease, it should be coated completely and evenly. Stick it into the back of that black piece.

Take a picture of your kitten and put it in the write up.

Fill the area around the PETG with hot glue.

Pull out the PETG while the glue is not sticky but still very pliable.

Use a hobby knife to trim it flush with the plastic. Now you've got some high quality dead space removal.

Plug the hole on the side with hot glue.

I smoothed mine out on the inside so I doubt it'll come out, but you can opt to put a single wrap of E-tape around that if you wish. I did.

Next you'll need to put that black piece back into the plunger tube as it was before you took it out, cover the end that went into the orange barrel in E6000, and mate the two parts together.  If there's a bead on the outside, which there will be if you used enough E6000, put your finger on it and rotate the barrel until it's even and thin.

Take off your o-ring, wash the plunger head with hot water and Dawn dish detergent, then add a single wrap of e-tape and another o-ring.

Add or replace your spring. I used the stock spring, a Recon spring, and mystery spring shown on the right. (left to right - Ace #49, nitefinder stock, spring in the blaster)

Grab two squares of craft foam cut larger than your plunger head. Glue them together with a flexible glue. I used E6000 of course. Then, in the dead center, grab a piece of 17/32" brass, place it on the foam, and hit it with a hammer. That'll cut out a nice center for the screw.

Make sure to cut the edges to a slightly smaller diameter than the plunger head.


You may stop here if you don't want to continue to the front gun modification.


Front gun AR removal, barrel replacement.

Tools list same as before, with scroll saw.

Parts list is same as before, plus:

-17/32" brass or 9/16" with tightening rings. I used 17/32", the length will be the same as the original barrel.
-Teflon tape (etape is too thick)

Start with your front gun. This thing is disgusting. It's got the smallest plunger out of any Nerf blaster, it's got a reverse plunger, it has the smallest spring for any Nerf blaster, it's uncomfortable, and mine came with stuff smeared on the side that smelled like mustard.

Open it entirely.  Pull out your barrel. Moving to the back, look at this piece and drill a 3/8" hole through it.

Drill out the front with a 9/16" drill bit.

You'll want to cut off that front piece, just the first half inch will do. It's going to act as a straightener.

Move to the back and cut off about a half inch down from the O-ring.

E6000 your 17/32" brass and put it in.

Add a single wrap of E-tape to the front of the brass barrel.  Place the plunger tube, barrel, and the front orange piece you cut off back into the blaster. When everything's in place as it should be, add a bead of hot glue to hold the orange piece and 17/32" together.

Augment your seal with Teflon tape, and if you just wanted to modify the front gun but not integrate it, stop here.


Front gun integration


You need hot glue, epoxy putty, a nut and bolt, scroll saw, belt sander, some strong, thin, low-friction, low-stretch string (Braided fishing line is best) and a cutting wheel on a dremel.

Start by removing EVERYTHING from your front gun shell and checkin out those supports.

One in front,

One in back.

NOTE: Screw your shell together before making cuts to ensure they're even on both sides.

Cut those.

Sand the front one on a belt sander until it's flush with the gray thing to the right (Known throughout the rest of this section as the gray thing.)

Make a mark at the end of the second gray thing, where shown.


The idea here is to leave a lot of "slack" so you can slowly trim it back to perfection.  I didn't do much cutting past this picture, but I'm not going to give you an exact place to cut as your results will vary and you should figure it out on your own for the best outcome.

Check to make sure it looks good on the longshot.

Grab your front gun, sand down the top contact areas of those four gray things.  This picture is shown before sanding.

Next, move to your main body and sand four corresponding areas on the shell. I marked mine with a Sharpie to give you an idea.

Add hot glue to the four gray parts you sanded on the front gun. Attach it to the longshot where it looks good, wait for it to cool, then open it up. Add some epoxy putty on the front support, on both sides.

On the center support, locate this T shaped piece of plastic. You'll need to cut it off and drill a hole through the front gun shell into the main body.

Add a nut/bolt combo, preferably with washer. This will make the bond removable, but stronger than a permanent epoxy putty option.

Cut this orange trigger piece halfway through the hollow part, then drill a hole where shown.

Tie a high-strength string to that hole. I used Spiderwire 30lb test fishing line because I had some of it in my tackle box, and it's teflon coated - low friction.

Dremel the area that's shown with the screwdriver, unscrew the mag well plate, run the line under that.

I ran the line under the mag release, then out the hole that I drilled. I found this to be the most ergonomic option for my ring trigger. You could also link it to the main one if you wanted.

Make sure to test your string setup to make sure it doesn't have too much friction and will move freely in the front gun case.

Reassemble your longshot as per usual.  Ranges for the main blaster are getting me 70-80 feet flat with Chinese elite darts, and the front gun with a 100% seal, extra spring, and brass barrel was actually getting me ranges of 45 feet flat.

4  Everything Nerf. / Modifications / Re: Modification and Paint jobs thread. on: January 14, 2015, 07:01:27 am
Longshot with front gun integration.  I spent a couple hours on a writeup for this, my browser kindly crashed as I was copying the whole thing to back it up.

There's also a camera mount I put in on the top, it'll hold my Sony HDR-PJ260 with ease, so that's neat.

Yeah, this is very lazy, all I did was drill a hole and stick a bolt/washer through and throw a rubber gasket I cut up on top. Works great though.

5  Everything Nerf. / Reviews / Re: [Vintage] Nerf SuperMAXX 750 Review on: January 08, 2015, 01:15:13 am
Nice review, Yks. You covered everything really well. I've always wanted one of these little blasters....

I recommend it. After fixing a leaky connection that I was not aware of, it turns out that this thing only needs 3 pumps to be fully pressurized and good to go. Adds a point to the RoF category.

6  Everything Nerf. / Reviews / Re: [Vintage] Nerf SuperMAXX 750 Review on: January 07, 2015, 02:25:42 pm
Very nice review. I've got one of these things stock somewhere I believe.

RoF: 4/10

This is the only drawback, as it's a single shot with a relatively small air volume, an RSCB will hurt your ranges by quite a lot with the deadspace and a hopper simply isn't going to be reliable in my experience. Combine that with needing to pump it 4 times in the uncomfortable manner, RoF is quite painful. However, it's a pistol, and if you're using a Supermaxx 750 as a primary you deserve to be frustrated by your RoF.

How is it with say 2 uncomfortable pumps instead of four uncomfortable. I know the range would be less but is it bad? I remember Mega modded a supersoaker and full powered was brutal, but it took like 30 pumps. However with 10 pumps still worked great.

Well, the Supermaxx 750 has a miniscule pump tube. Two pumps is going to get you so little pressure that your dart is barely going to move at all, maybe 30' max?
7  Everything Nerf. / General Nerf / Re: Thrift store finds. on: January 06, 2015, 03:18:31 pm

bampin your thread - $4.79
8  Everything Nerf. / Reviews / [Vintage] Nerf SuperMAXX 750 Review on: January 06, 2015, 03:12:07 pm
Decided I'd review some of my older Nerf blasters for the hell of it. I recently got my hands on a beautiful SM750 (Not a scuff on it) - Here's my first impressions.

Debuting in 1996, the Supermaxx 750 is a single-shot, air powered pistol produced by Larami, originally retailing for ~$10USD between 1996 and 2003.

As was the custom of the Supermaxx line, it fired the selfsame-titled Supermaxx darts, a small variation on the Mega darts of the time.

It features a purple primary color, lime green secondary, as well as black & orange accenting.

Past the introduction, I'll move on to the basics of the blaster.  The entire first part is reviewing it in stock form.


Accuracy: N/A

The accuracy of this blaster in stock form is going to be the same as that of nearly any other suction-firing Nerf blaster, that is, you're not going to hit someone from far enough away to worry about accuracy, simply due to the range - See below.

Range: 4/10

The stock range of this blaster is about the same as every other Supermaxx blaster I've used, being between 15 and 25 feet depending on dart quality and how long you wait to fire after pumping the blaster.

RoF: 5/10

It's nothing special. You put a dart in, pump it 3* times, and fire. I was able to get approximately one shot every three or four seconds as the barrel is a very loose fit and darts can just be "slapped" right in. Not much can be expected from a single-barrel pistol with no ammo holders.

Overall, the performance gets a 5/10.

Aesthetics, comfort, and usability


I don't give this any rating, as it has no impact to the blaster. I like the Super Soaker themed design of all the Supermaxx line, and while the colors may not be the greatest by many's opinion, it's a fairly simple design that has a lot of accent areas and it lends itself VERY well to paintjobs - Plus, looking at the 1996 Nerf logo brings a warmth to my heart and I can't dislike the stock aesthetic.

Comfort: 3/10

Generally, if a grip doesn't allow you to wrap all four fingers around, I've never cared as I have little mobility or feeling of my pinky fingers in either hand (see picture), sp at first the grip didn't bother me. However, the grip is incredibly thin. If I wrap my hand around it, the trigger lands somewhere in my first or second knuckle and my index finger and thumb overlap. It's an uncomfortable gun to use extensively.

Usability: 5/10

While it's incredibly simple to use, the rear-facing pump handle is a bad design by nature. Pumping an air tank takes a relatively high amount of force compared to something like priming a Recon, and while I'm fairly muscular and able to pump the 750 with a fair amount of ease, it's an uncomfortable method and I can't find myself getting used to it after some playtime with the blaster. Other than that, it's simple and easy to operate.

Overall, in stock form, the average of my scores is 4/10, or 2/5 - In stock form, this is pretty much a worthless blaster to own, aside from the collector value - Which is originally what I intended on getting it for.

However, there's the moddability, and here are my thoughts in modded form.

Accuracy: 9/10

It's an air blaster, and if your barrel is straight and you're using good darts, it's deadly accurate and you should be able to consistently hit a human-sized target beyond 60 feet. Still a Nerf gun, not going to be perfect, so I'm giving it a 9.

Range: 10/10

I can't give this anything but a 10 due to the fact that you can EASILY achieve 90-100 feet flat in this tiny package. A PETG barrel replacement, OPRV plugging, spring gluing, and some air seal modifications will be all you need to do to get this thing running beautifully. You can also opt to replace or relocate the pump to something/somewhere better.

RoF: 5/10

This is the only drawback, as it's a single shot with a relatively small air volume, an RSCB will hurt your ranges by quite a lot with the deadspace and a hopper simply isn't going to be reliable in my experience. Combine that with needing to pump it 3* times in the uncomfortable manner, RoF is quite painful. However, it's a pistol, and if you're using a Supermaxx 750 as a primary you deserve to be frustrated by your RoF.

Overall, performance gets a 8/10 when modded, but if I were to consider it vs all other primaries of relative size, I'd give it a 9/10.  I think this is one of the best sidearms you can have around - comparing it to a TTG, Nitefinder, etc. it's going to outrange it every time, comparing to even a Supermaxx 1500 or Angel Breech LS. Obviously price depends on the person, but if I were to find one of these for under $10 now that I have one, I'd definitely pick it up - if I didn't have one, I'd get one for $15 or under, $15 to $20 is spending a bit too much for my personal tastes. I have a blast messing around with this little guy and think he'll have a place in my arsenal for a while to come.


*Note about the edit

I had a leaky connection that required I pump it 4 times to get the OPRV to kick in - With everything sealed up, three pumps will pop the OPRV and you'll be ready to go.  Bumped up a point in each RoF category.
9  Everything Nerf. / Modifications / Re: The Complete Guide to Supermaxx 1500s by yksnerf on: January 06, 2015, 07:27:02 am
Reserve post 2 - Troubleshooting
10  Everything Nerf. / Modifications / Re: The Complete Guide to Supermaxx 1500s by yksnerf on: January 06, 2015, 07:26:26 am
Reserve post #1 - Airflow modifications
11  Everything Nerf. / Modifications / The Complete Guide to Supermaxx 1500s by yksnerf on: January 06, 2015, 07:24:06 am
--As of posting here, this writeup is still a WIP because it's very lengthy as I put a lot of detail into it. There will be multiple edits to come if this message is still present--

My friend brought me three stock, old-style Supermaxx 1500s to work on. I fell in love with these blasters as soon as I messed around with them a bit, they're incredibly cool and one of my favorite blasters. He gave me one to keep, which I modified, and learned a couple things NOT to do which weren't present in a lot of writeups. Additionally, there's no single, detailed, writeup on overhauling a Supermaxx 1500 that describes and instructs how to do everything AND how NOT to do everything.

I'm here to impart the knowledge I gained by screwing over one of the Supermaxxes and then figuring out how to fix it. I'll be doing a writeup in the following style:

>Tutorial on a modification

>Problems that can arise from a modification

>Diagnoses for the problems

Let's jump in.

Step 1: Open your blaster.

The screws on the pump handle are irrelevant and do not need to be taken out.
The only issues you will face when disassembling your Supermaxx for the first time are two caps, shown here:

They will need to be cut or pried off, unless you want to dip them in boiling water or find some other way of dissolving the glue to remove them.

The other issue will be glue at the top of the orange reservoir. You may just use leverage and gently snap the pieces apart, however, that poses a risk of breaking or creating stress marks in the plastic around there, so I recommend the boiling water treatment beforehand or using some sort of blade to separate the pieces more gently.


These are fairly simple. Refer to these before reassembly of your blaster. Nothing here is small enough to have a large risk of misplacement other than the trigger spring which is not pictured. Familiarize yourself with the air tank, turret, and trigger locations before moving on with your modification.

Turret Modification

This is the most extensive, difficult, and tedious section of this blaster. It's such a large portion that you could do it, put the turret back in the blaster, and be getting 80 feet flat. Don't get lazy though; this is by no means a beginner modification and should be handled with great care.

Start by lifting the turret out of the blaster. It's not held in by anything.

- Moving to the back, rotate the barrels while keeping the back stationary until the holes line up with the screws.

Hold the turret upright while removing the screws so they will fall straight down, otherwise they are liable to get lodged in the rotation mechanism and can mar the plastic during a later step.

- Pull the black barrel spacer off.

- Remove all barrels from the turret, by gently wiggling them and pulling upward. In the case that they are inseparable from the turret, hold them in boiling water for 30 seconds while taking care not to burn yourself. Wait 2-3 minutes after taking them out of the boiling water before attempting to remove the barrels again, as the plastic will be both extremely hot, and as such, pliable - you do not want to deform your turret or barrels.

Your turret will look like this from the front after the barrels are removed.

You may set the turret aside for now.

- Grab your barrels. You will notice on the bottom, there is a "cap" of sorts, visible due to the seam in the plastic.

- Using a saw of some sort (I recommend a bandsaw or scrollsaw), nestle the blade in that seam and cut along it.

View from the back, post-cutting:

- Grab a 9/16" spade bit (Can be found for roughly $3.50 at your local hardware store) - The central "spike" will fit into the hole of the barrel, and with a little wiggle you can easily center it perfectly. I had the best results here with a spade bit, you may prefer a different style.

Clamping down a barrel in a vice or onto your table will make this job much easier to get done perfectly. The hole does not have to be clean on the inside, but it's important to get it as centered as possible (If it's off by too much, you can always fix it with different methods, but that adds an extra amount of work.

This is what my barrel looked like after I did a small amount of drilling with the spade bit. I switched to a standard 9/16" bit afterward and gently rotated my drill to ream out the inside slightly.

- Take a pair of scissors and keep reaming out the inside of the barrel. Your goal is to get PETG to fit inside of it very easily, loose enough that you can push it in with the pressure of your pinky finger, but will stay put if you let go of the PETG and just hold the barrel itself.  Do this with all four barrels, testing them all with PETG.

Once that's done, you can set your barrels aside and grab the turret again.

- Move to the back, find the pin with the spring on it, and pry it off as gently as possible with a small pry bar, or a claw hammer. This will take a lot of force, be careful not to bend any of the plastic. Separate all parts of the turret.

Bonus: If you see the faint line on my thumb, that's scarring from the vague knife accident I mentioned in the FU shoutbox.

- Grab the barrel section of your turret. Start by widening the holes with a bit slightly larger than the holes themselves, I believe the one I used was 3/8". Then move up to 1/2" and drill it out again. Drill from the front, it's the easiest.



- Move to the back, and you'll find that these walls have been decimated by the drilling.

You're going to grab a pair of needle nose pliers and break those all off, then clean up with an X-Acto knife.

- Next, from the front again, drill it out with a 9/16" standard bit. Ream that until PETG will fit in firmly, but NOT warp. This is imperative. PETG, being a loose barrel, has space around your dart. If there is warping, that holds your dart in with more friction and will have larger spaces around it for air to escape.  Your dart will simply not leave the barrel on the first shot, but will shoot fine the second time, as shown here:

[Video will be inserted here prior to completion of the writeup]

This is an example of bad barrels - notice the very light oval shape on all of them. That's enough to ruin your firing.

- After you've ensured the barrels have no warping (Common cause for warping is the circular wall of the rotation mech, you may need to file/grind that down a bit), have them protruding slightly from the back of your turret.

- Set the turret down on a hard, flat surface, and press the stock barrels on.

- Add the black spacer.

- You're not going to be able to get it on there with your hands, so put a screwdriver through (Has to be a large one that can't be easily bent) and push down hard on the head and handle.

Kind of a pain, but damn is it satisfying when that thing goes on.

(Note for the next step - I use Vis-a-vis markers for all the marks I make and recommend you do too, do yourself a huge favor and pick these up)
- Once that is done, go to the top of the barrels, and make marks on your PETG with a washable marker where the ORANGE BARRELS end, then disassemble your turret again.

- Lightly wrap the PETG with masking tape BELOW the mark you made (If you wrap it tightly, you're going to warp your PETG and cause the same problem with pinching) until it has little wiggle room in the wider diameter section of orange barrel - This helps keep the PETG straight, and you'll want the wiggle room for when you put your barrel spacers on as the stock barrels are not perfectly straight, and you don't want to bend your PETG when you put the spacers on.  The tape is just to help them face the correct direction.

Currently DRAFT 1. There will be more steps added and pictures added where necessary tomorrow.

This is the end of the first draft. Last edit: 1/6/2015 07:23 CST -6GMT
12  Everything Nerf. / General Nerf / Re: "Best" Nerf gun for different people on: January 05, 2015, 06:54:13 am

Favorite range blaster

Favorite RoF blaster

Favorite "Just for fun" blaster

Favorite "all around" blaster

Bampin' this topic because I'm trying to breathe some life into FU and HoF.

I've got multiple choices for each category.

Range blaster:
For screwing around, a titan. You can do anything with this and it will have the power to keep up. Coop's thrown one in a maverick before - they're surprisingly compact if you integrate them.

For HvZ or indoor, since I got it recently, I've taken a liking to Supermaxx 1500s - rotating turret, air powered, 4 shots. Good stuff. Especially with rear loading. If you don't want to hurt people, just pump the thing once.

For a legit war, I'd say a Supermaxx 1500 as well. Pump it twice and you're good to go with 100-140 foot ranges depending on darts. It's sexy as hell.

RoF blaster
HvZ or indoor, Raider, hands down. OMW kit in there is absolute madness when I play HvZ - Slam fire is a gimmick but I've used it quite a lot vs melee people where accuracy and range are less of an issue. I say the Raider over an Alpha Trooper because I've never used the latter, and I absolutely love the ergonomic of a Raider - Even with a side mounted 35 dart drum.

Legit war, I'm not going to count "____ with a hopper" because that's literally any Nerf gun out there. You can put a hopper on a Nitefinder and get 40-50 foot ranges - Flywheels I'm throwing out the window as well because they're all higher ROF and I hate flywheels more than I hate Mavericks and Vulcans.

My answer for this one is a Longshot with an angel breech. Shooting >100ft and you can use a 35 dart drum.

Just for fun

Just screwing around, I love Secret Strikes. They're so fun and small and I wish I would've stocked up on them when they were $1.50 at WalMart. You can do anything with one of these.

Doing something like going to someone's house and shooting Nerf guns at each other around a room, I love Recons. No real reason, I just like the small size and clip system.

All around is easily the Longshot. You can do anything with one of these in one of the coolest shells ever made. I'd say it's better than an Xbow for modding to be honest.
13  Everything Nerf. / Modifications / Basic Titan Writeup. Couplered, AR removal, safety removal, OPRV plugging & more on: January 05, 2015, 06:24:47 am
Direct copy/paste from FU - I've got a lot more writeups in the works if I'm not too lazy to do them.  TOMORROW HOPEFULLY


I'm glad to be back. I haven't touched a Nerf gun in over 2 years and I'm pumped to be modding again.

Today I thrifted up a large amount of Nerf guns at a Salvation Army near me. To start with, I'm modifying the Titan I got for 99 cents. If it had the missile attachment and missiles with it, I'd probably leave it stock; however it's got neither, so I'm going to single and coupler it.

I've never seen the internals one of these in pictures or in person, or if I have, I don't remember it.
I'm going in blind!

For my tools, I just grabbed the basics, a leatherman knockoff, screwdrivers, a hacksaw, hot glue gun, wire cutters, and pliers (not pictured) as well as various lights and knives for my use.

Make sure to grab your healthy beverages.

To start yourself out, begin removing all the screws from the blaster. This was a pain for me, as they were all in condition like this:

There are these four screws in this piece that locks the missile barrel on, these don't necessarily have to be removed. I opted to take them off because I didn't want them.

The screw on the right here was entirely stripped out and could not be removed.

My solution for this is to apply a wedge, in this case I used the knife to be constantly prying it open.
Then, carefully put the tip of a heated soldering iron onto the head of the screw. It will heat and soften the plastic, and the case will come apart.

Here's what it looks like after I've done that.

This orange ring is holding the case together, you can either cut and break it off or choose to gently break the glue if you wish to keep it intact.

I opted to cut it and then pry the ring the rest of the way off.

Moving onto an internals shot. Quite simple.

The first thing I took issue with was the trigger.

It operates by the black arm being pulling on the release pin of the air tank when the trigger is pulled.

Here's an idea of how much wiggle room it has without even doing anything, I highlighted the black arm/bar.

My first remedy for that, I put a small piece of spacer plastic that was snug enough to fit on its own (I don't have a good picture of this),
and then threw hot glue on that. That way, the black arm can't move around on its own and will start moving as soon as the trigger is moved.

Next, I took this piece of plastic,

And pressed it down between the black bar & where it pushes on the air release pin. This removes the "Dead space" of the trigger pull, and it's a much more satisfying feel.

While I was working around the area, I removed the trigger.

This piece is a safety, and can be removed.

As well, this is the piece of plastic I used to create the spacer found 4 images back, using the following cuts:

There's another safety in the front trigger.

You'll want to remove these as they rattle like an annoying motherf***** any time you move the blaster more than an inch.

Moving to the front for the final step, saw off the air restrictor.

Grab your CPVC coupler. If you don't have one, take a dollar to the hardware store and get yourself a dozen.

My favorite adhesive process is super glue > epoxy > E6000 (my favorite sealant adhesive) > hot glue. I'll explain this.

Super glue, AKA Cyanoacrylate glue, will bond nearly instantly if it's flush with a surface. It's not fantastic for holding heavily stressed things, so I avoid using it as a general adhesive- I use it to stick something somewhere with a relatively high amount of strength while I prepare/apply epoxy and stronger adhesives.

Epoxy is the strongest adhesive out there. It's not glue, and glue isn't epoxy, too many people get this wrong - it's different. Anyways, epoxy takes a long time to cure (24+ hours to be usable in my eyes, I prefer 40+ hours before abusing epoxy bonds though) and isn't a fantastic sealant, however it's incredibly strong strength-wise.

E6000 is very similar to Goop. It has little to no adhesive value, as in if you stick two pieces of plastic together with it, let it cure, and then pull the plastic pieces apart, they're not going to stay together. However, it's a fantastic sealant, which is why I use it at this step in the process.

Finally, grab some hot glue and drench that mofo. It provides a protective casing, cools in under a minute, and will hold things together with the super glue while everything cures.

Yes, this process is incredibly overkill, no you don't need to do it, but I recommend using super glue, E6000 or a lot of epoxy, and then hot glue.

I only had super glue, E6000, and hot glue, so I just used the three.

With super glue,

E6000 which isn't visible and a hefty amount of hot glue.

Even though I do it all the time, I'm strongly advising to not put hot glue on any adhesive that isn't cured/dried yet. Super glue creates acrid fumes that are capable of stinging your eyes and nose and being noticeable for hours to days, E6000 and Goop trash your kidneys and kill your brain cells, and I'm not sure about epoxy but it smells like dog farts if you get hot glue on it which is reason enough for me.

That's my lengthy writeup for a very simple mod, but this is the first thing I've touched in a long time. Glad to be back.



I also resized the images for this because HoF doesn't auto-resize them. They're a bit squished, I forget the aspect ratio of my camera. deal w/ it
14  Everything Nerf. / Modifications / Wookie Boy [Write-Up] by yksnerf on: April 28, 2013, 10:19:39 pm
Basically, I got this thing in a box of guns to mod for some contracts.  If any of you guys have the same one, here's a mod guide for you. Ranges previously were about 2 feet (Literally) and afterward, I'm getting 30-50' flat with stock streamlines.

Anyways, let's get right into this!

1/2" CPVC or 17/32" Brass barrel, I think brass would be better in this application as it's a bit more loose for the low power of this weapon.
Some hot glue.
Some epoxy, Goop, rubber cement- anything that's suitable for a barrel seal.

Phillips head screwdriver- Larger than for a normal Nerf gun, my main screwdriver that is the PERFECT size for all Nerf screws was a bit too small here.
Dremel, file, even some wire cutters if you're desperate- There's just a small rail of plastic you have to shave down.
Maybe a standard "Flat head" screwdriver to pop the thing apart.

Total mod time, about 3 minutes for screw removal using my screwdriver that was too small, maybe 10-20 minutes for the actual modding, 5 minutes for re-assembly.  Here we go!

Stock blaster:

Side with the screws on it:

Start by taking the screws out of the orange front piece, then gently popping it apart.

That little tab between the orange pieces there is what holds the bow arms in place. If you're holding the crossbow as though you would shoot it, grab the bow arms and twist the TOP towards you while pushing down and it'll come off easily.

Next, you can pull off the orange pieces. Mine came out with the barrel:

Here's the front- On the right is where the barrel used to be, and you can see the peg which is an AR.

Take out all the screws now, here are the internals.  Truly more simple than a NiteFinder internals.

As you can see, there is a blue tube (The one with the silver squiggly line going across it), that hides the clear tube.  You can slide that off the front. Next, grab the AR assembly. This is where things are slightly less easy.  I tried cutting mine here:

That wasn't far enough.  So grab a Dremel or a hacksaw and start cutting off farther down that assembly, until you just hit a spring:

But now, with all that junk cut off, you can see that this piece does not reach the barrel.

Grab that blue cosmetic barrel piece shown in the next picture. You'll need to cut off an inch of it, although I don't have a picture for that.

Hammer it into about 2.5-3" of CPVC, until it simply is snug- You want enough length from it to reach the cut down AR assembly.

I first slid the cosmetic barrel that was leftover onto the clear tube. After this, I applied some Goop to the cut down AR assembly, then put it in the blue piece sticking out of the CPVC. I applied some hot glue to hold it while the Goop cured, then slid up the cosmetic barrel to cool in the hot glue as well.

Finished up:

I drilled a hole in the priming arm and added a loop of string, this makes priming the blaster MUCH easier.

Hope you enjoyed, and if you have the blaster, hope this helped you mod it!

Yksnerf out!  :rock:
15  For our Members / Member Input. / Re: HoF News letter on: July 27, 2011, 10:57:34 pm
I was thinking it would be like a "Most posts/writeups/whatever this month"
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