Concept Thread

[Techshooter]

@NerfDoctor, I saw you mention clear PVC in one of your posts, and I wouldn't recommend it. I've heard of clear PVC breaking quite easily in snaps. They are more susceptible to UV rays than normal PVC, causing them to be slightly more dangerous.

Other than that your ideas sound good. No clue how you could think of anything at 4am. My friend made a Nerfish marshmallow launcher for a physics project, and it used a valve system like yours. He made it out of brass pipe, but I can't remember how he made the valve. I'll have to ask him.

A concept that I've been wanting to make: a 3 in. shorter Pumpbow Lt. Stefan style. My dream plan is to make it use Nerf clips, like a pump action Longshot. I've been thinking of this plan for awhile now, I just haven't done it yet.

[Nerf Doctor]

Yeah, UV damage is an issue, but the ability to see the internals working is important enough I'll go for the clear, then have an outer casing to use in the sunlight of either another piece of PVC or just a length of cloth.

[Nerf Doctor]

In theory, a 1.25" bushing should fit over the front of an AT2K tank and a 1.25" cap over the back and the bushing. It needs to be one of the really dead-spacey bushings, and you need to drill a hole in the cap, but then you have an easy way to coupler the tank while you reinforce it for stupid pressures.

[Nerf Doctor]

Ok, so you may remember this picture of progress towards my failed masterkey project

Sorry for 5yo blur as F**K, but it's given me an idea. I'm going to attempt to do a tank reinforcement and tank expansion on a BBUMB at the same time. I'll drill holes into the actual tank to allow airflow, then glue a 1.5"x.5" threaded bushing over the front; the .5" section actually fits fairly snugly around the original barrel and valve opening and is threaded for different barrel setups, and the 1.5" part seals against the ridge of the tank as seen in the picture. For the back half, I can again drill some holes for flow, glue some CPVC around the pin, then use a 1.5"x .5" slip bushing with a PVC stub to seal the CPVC and a 1.5" coupler to seal with the front. Using a coupler will give even more support to then tank, and will allow me to space the back bushing away from the tank some if I want to increase the volume more than already. It will also allow me to bolt the rear bushing into the coupler instead of gluing it, meaning I'll be able to remove the bushing in case the string to the pin breaks or there are other issues. Seeing as the front part of the valve on the tank I'll be using has already been cut down(damnit past-me), there's a really good chance I'll end up with the pin misaligning often, especially with a string instead of the trigger pin and lever. I figure this'll end up with somewhat-similar performance to my EPVAT, but with less effort on the seal. It could also be done to a new BBUMB since the shells are nice and spacey. I'd actually really like to shove something like this in a Thunderblast when it comes out for awesome rocket-shooting.

[Nerf Doctor]

Take a SledgeFire, replace lack-luster internals with an airtank, improve the "breach" seal via craft foam or other squishy material, glue PETG barrels that are as long as the outer barrel into several of the shells, have a triple shot breach loader with backup shells. I've actually never used PETG for barrels before seeing as CPVC was always easier and cheaper to come by, as well as being pretty sturdy, so this will be my first venture with it. Depending on whether or not the outer barrel is bigger around than the shells, I might also consider a spacer for the barrels that will fit in the outer barrel. I figure, the SledgeFire is a really nice shell, and the breach loading reminds me of the DoubleShot, so I'll make it useful.